Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
When the Revolutionists in France set about altering and simplifying
costume, they did away with shoe-buckles, and fastened their shoes with
plain strings. Minister Roland, one day in 1793, was about to present
himself to Louis XVI while he was wearing shoes with strings. The old
Master of Ceremonies, scandalized at having to introduce a person in
such a state of undress, looked despairingly at Dumouriez, who was
present. Dumouriez replied with an equally hopeless gesture, and the
words, “Hélas! oui, monsieur, tout est perdu.”
President Jefferson, with his hateful French notions, made himself
especially obnoxious to conservative American folk by giving up
shoe-buckles. I read in the _New York Evening Post_ that when he
received the noisy bawling band of admirers who brought into the White
House the Mammoth Cheese (one of the most vulgar exhibitions ever seen
in this country), he was “dressed in his suit of customary black, with
shoes that laced tight round the ankle and closed with a neat leathern
string.”
When shoe-strings were established and trousers were becoming popular,
there seemed to be a time of indecision as to the dress of the legs
below the short pantaloons and above the stringed shoes. That point of
indefiniteness was filled promptly with top-boots. First, black tops
appeared; then came tops of fancy leather, of which yellow was the
favorite. Gilt tassels swung pleasingly from the colored tops. Silken
tassels—home made—were worn. I have a letter from a young American
macaroni to his sweetheart in which he thanks her for her
“heart-filling boot-tossels”—which seems to me a very cleverly
flattering adjective. He adds: “Did those rosy fingers twist the silken
strands, and knot them with thought of the wearer? I wish you was
loveing enough to tye some threads of your golden hair into the
tossells, but I swear I cannot find never a one.” The conjunction of
two negatives in this manner was common usage a hundred years ago;
while “you was” may be found in the writings of our greatest authors of
that date.
In one attribute, women’s footwear never varied in the two centuries of
this book’s recording. It was always thin-soled and of light material;
never adequate for much “walking abroad” or for any wet weather. In
fact, women have never worn heavy walking-boots until our own day.
Whether high-heeled or no-heeled they were always thin.
The curious “needle-pointed” slippers which are pictured here were the
bridal slippers at the wedding of Cornelia de Peyster, who married
Oliver Teller in 1712. Several articles of her dress still exist; and
the background of the slippers is a breadth of the superb yellow and
silver brocade wedding gown worn at the same time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account