Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
When we have the tiny pages of the few newspapers to turn to, we learn
a little of women’s shoes. There were advertisements in 1740 of
“mourning shoes,” “fine silk shoes,” “flowered russet shoes,” “white
callimanco shoes,” “black shammy shoes,” “girls’ flowered russet
shoes,” “shoes of black velvet, white damask, red morocco, and red
everlasting.” “Damask worsted shoes in red, blue, green, pink color and
white,” in 1751. There were satinet patterns for ladies’ shoes
embroidered with flowers in the vamp. The heels were “high, cross-cut,
common, court, and wurtemburgh.” Some shoes were white with russet
bands. “French fall” shoes were worn both by women and men for many
years.
Mrs. Abigail Bromfield Rogers. Mrs. Abigail Bromfield Rogers.
Here is a pair of beautiful brocade wedding shoes. The heels are not
high. Another pair was made of the silken stuff of the beautiful sacque
worn by Mrs. Carroll. These have high heels running down to a very
small heel-base. In the works of Hogarth we may find many examples of
women’s shoes. In all the old shoes I have seen, made about the time of
the American Revolution, the maker’s name is within and this legend,
“Rips mended free.” Many heels were much higher and smaller than any
given in this book.
Mrs. Carroll’s Slippers. Mrs. Carroll’s Slippers.
It is astonishing to read the advocacy and eulogy given by sensible
gentlemen to these extreme heels. Watson, the writer of the _Annals of
Philadelphia_, extolled their virtues—that they threw the weight of the
wearer on the ball of the foot and spread it out for a good support. He
deplores the flat feet of 1830.
In 1790 heels disappeared; sandal-shapes were the mode. The quarters
were made low, and instead of a buckle was a tiny bow or a pleated
ribbon edging. In 1791 “the exact size” of the shoe of the Duchess of
York was published—a fashionable fad which our modern sensation hunters
have not bethought themselves of. It was 5 3/4 inches in length; the
breadth of sole, 1 3/4 inches. It was a colored print, and shows that
the lady’s shoe was of green silk spotted with gold stars, and bound
with scarlet silk. The sole is thicker at the back, forming a slight
uplift which was not strictly a heel. Of course, this was a tiny foot,
but we do not know the height of the duchess.
I have seen the remains of a charming pair of court shoes worn in
France by a pretty Boston girl. These had been embroidered with paste
jewels, “diamonds”; while to my surprise the back seam of both shoes
was outlined with paste emeralds. I find that this was the mode of the
court of Marie Antoinette. The queen and her ladies wore these in real
jewels, and in affectation wore no jewels elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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