Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
“4 Pair Shoes.
2 Pair Irish Stockings about 13d. a pair.
1 Pair knit Stockings about 2s. 4d. a pair.
1 Pair Norwich Garters about 5s. a dozen.
4 Shirts.
2 Suits of Doublet and Hose; of leather lined with oiled skin leather,
the hose and doublet with hooks and eyes.
1 Suit of Northern Dussens or Hampshire Kerseys lined, the hose with
skins, the doublet with linen of Guildford or Gedleyman serges, 2s.
10d. a yard, 4-1/2 to 5 yards a suit.
4 Bands.
2 Plain falling bands.
1 Standing band.
1 Waistcoat of green cotton bound about with red tape.
1 Leather Girdle.
2 Monmouth Cap, about 2s. apiece.
1 Black Hat lined at the brim with leather.
5 Red knit caps milled; about 5d. apiece.
2 Dozen Hooks and eyes and small hooks and eyes for mandillions.
1 Pair Calfs Leather gloves (and some odd pairs of knit and sheeps
leather gloves).
A number of Ells Sheer Linen for Handkerchiefs.”
On March 16th was added to this list a mandillion lined with cotton at
12d. a yard. Also breeches and waistcoats; a leather suit of doublet
and breeches of oiled leather; a pair of breeches of leather, “the
drawers to serve to wear with both their other suits.” There was also
full, yes, generous for the day, provision of rugs, bedticks, bolsters,
mats, blankets, and sheets for the berths, and table linen. There were
fifty beds; evidently two men occupied each bed. Folk, even of wealth
and refinement, were not at all sensitive as to their mode of sleeping
or their bedfellows. The pages of Pepys’s _Diary_ give ample examples
of this carelessness.
Arms and armor were also furnished, as will be explained in a later
chapter.
A private letter written by an engineer, one Master Graves, the
following year (1630), giving a list of “such needful things as every
planter ought to provide,” affords a more curt and much less expensive
list, though this has three full suits, two being of wool stuffs:—
“1 Monmouth Cap.
3 Falling Bands.
3 Shirts.
1 Waistcoat.
1 Suit Canvass.
1 Suit Frieze.
1 Suit of Cloth.
3 Pair of Stockings.
4 Pair of Shoes.
Armour complete.
Sword &; Belt.”
The underclothing in this outfit seems very scanty.
I am sure that to some of the emigrants on these ships either outfit
afforded an ampler wardrobe than they had known theretofore in England,
though English folk of that day were well dressed. With a little
consideration we can see that the Massachusetts Bay apparel was
adequate for all occasions, but it was far different from a man’s dress
to-day. The colonist “hadn’t a coat to his back”; nor had he a pair of
trousers. Some had not even a pair of breeches. It was a time when
great changes in dress were taking place. The ancient gown had just
been abandoned for doublet and long hose, which were still in high
esteem, especially among “the elder sort,” with garters or points for
the knees. These doublets were both of leather and wool. And there were
also doublets to be worn by younger men with breeches and stockings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account