Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
But Hutchinson had his turn to wear gay clothes. A great funeral was to
be given to Ireton, who was his distant kinsman; yet Cromwell, from
jealousy, sent no bidding or mourning suit to him. A general invitation
and notice was given to the whole assembly, and on the hour of the
funeral, within the great, gloomy state-chamber, hung in funereal
black, and filled with men in trappings of woe, covered with great
black cloaks with long, weeping hatbands drooping to the ground, in
strode Hutchinson; this time he was in scarlet and cliquante, “such as
he usually wore,”—so wrote his wife,—astonishing the eyes of all,
especially the diplomats and ambassadors who were present, who probably
deemed him of so great station as to be exempt from wearing black. The
master of ceremonies timidly regretted to him, in hesitating words,
that no mourning had been sent—it had been in some way overlooked; the
General could not, thus unsuitably dressed, follow the coffin in the
funeral procession—it would not look well; the master of ceremonies
would be rebuked—all which proved he did not know Hutchinson, for
follow he could, and would, and did, in this rich dress. And he walked
through the streets and stood in the Abbey, with his scarlet cloak
flaunting and fluttering like a gay tropical bird in the midst of a
slowly flying, sagging flock of depressed black crows,—you have seen
their dragging, heavy flight,—and was looked upon with admiration and
love by the people as a splendid and soldierly figure.
We must not forget that the years which saw the settlement of Salem and
Boston were not under the riot of dress countenanced by James. Charles
I was then on the throne; and the rich and beautiful dress worn by that
king had already taken shape.
There has been an endeavor made to attribute this dress to the
stimulus, to the influence, of Puritan feeling. Possibly some of the
reaction against the absurdities of Elizabeth and James may have helped
in the establishment of this costume; but I think the excellent taste
of Charles and especially of his queen, Henrietta Maria, who succeeded
in making women’s dress wholly beautiful, may be thanked largely for
it. And we may be grateful to the painter Van Dyck; for he had not only
great taste as to dress, and genius in presenting his taste to the
public, but he had a singular appreciation of the pictorial quality of
dress and a power of making dress appropriate to the wearer. And he
fully understood its value in indicating character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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