Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
We have ample proof that these black whisks were in general wear in
England. In an account-book of Sarah Fell of Swarthmoor Hall in 1673,
are these items: “a black alamode whiske for Sister Rachel; a round
whiske for Susanna; a little black whiske for myself.” This English
Quaker sends also a colored stuff manteo to her sister; scores of
English inventories of women’s wardrobes contain precisely similar
items to those bought by Son Hall. And it is a tribute to the devotion
of American women to the rigid laws of fashion, even in that early day,
to find that all whisks, save black whisks and lustring ones, disappear
at this date from colonial inventories of effects.
She wrote to him for a “side of plum colored leather” for her shoes.
This was a matter of much concern to him, not at all because this
leather was a bit gay or extravagant, or frail wear for an elderly
grandmother, but because it was not the very latest thing in leather.
He writes anxiously:—
“Secondly you sent for Damson-Coloured Spanish Leather for Womans
Shoes. But there is noe Spanish Leather of that Colour; and Turkey
Leather is coloured on the grain side only, both of which are out of
use for Women’s Shoes. Therefore I bought a Skin of Leather that is all
the mode for Women’s Shoes. All that I fear is, that it is too thick.
But my Coz. Eppes told me yt such thin ones as are here generally used,
would by rain and snow in N. England presently be rendered of noe
service and therefore persuaded me to send this, which is stronger than
ordinary. And if the Shoemaker fit it well, may not be uneasy.”
Perhaps his anxious offices and advices in regard to fans show more
curiously than other quotations, the insistent attitude of the New
England mind in regard to the latest fashions. I cannot to-day conceive
why any woman, young or old, could have been at all concerned in
Ipswich in 1675 as to which sort of fan she carried, or what was
carried in London, yet good Son John writes:—
“As to the feathered fan, I should also have found it in my heart to
let it alone, because none but very grave persons (and of them very
few) use it. That now ’tis grown almost as obsolete as Russets and more
rare to be seen than a yellow Hood. But the Thing being Civil and not
very dear, Remembering that in the years 64 and 68, if I mistake not,
you had Two Fans sent, I have bought one now on purpose for you, and I
hope you will be pleased.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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