Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Evidently the screen-fan of Pocahontas’s day was no longer a novelty.
His mother had had far more fans that he remembered. In 1664 two
“Tortis shell fanns” had gone across seas; one had cost five shillings,
the other ten shillings. The following year came a black feather fan
with silver handle, and two tortoise-shell fans; in 1666 two more
tortoise-shell fans; in 1688 another feather fan, and so on. These many
fans may have been disposed of as gifts to others, but the entire trend
of the son’s letters, as well as his express directions, would show
that all these articles were for his mother’s personal use. When finery
was sent for madam’s daughter, it was so specified; in 1675, when the
daughter became a bride, Brother John sent her her wedding gloves, ever
a gift of sentiment. A pair of wedding gloves of that date lies now
before me. They are mitts rather than gloves, being fingerless. They
are of white kid, and are twenty-two inches long. They are very wide at
the top, and have three drawing-strings with gilt tassels; these are
run in welts about two inches apart, and were evidently drawn into
puffs above the elbow when worn. A full edging of white Swiss lace and
a pretty design of dots made in gold thread on the back of the hand,
form altogether a very costly, elegant, and decorative article of
dress. I should fancy they cost several pounds. Men’s gloves were
equally rich. Here are the gold-fringed gloves of Governor Leverett
worn in 1640.
Gold-fringed Gloves of Governor Leverett. Gold-fringed Gloves of
Governor Leverett.
Of course the only head-gear of Madam Symonds for outdoor wear was a
hood. Hats were falling in disfavor. I shall tell in a special chapter
of the dominance at this date and the importance of the French hood.
Its heavy black folds are shown in the portraits of Rebecca Rawson
(here), of Madam Simeon Stoddard (here), and on other heads in this
book. Such a hood probably covered Madam Symonds’s head heavily and
fully, whene’er she walked abroad; certainly it did when she rode a
pillion-back. She had other fashionable hoods—all the fashionable
hoods, in fact, that were worn in England at that time; hoods of
lustring, of tiffany, of “bird’s-eye”—precisely the same as had Madam
Pepys, and one of spotted gauze, the last a pretty vanity for summer
wear. We may remember, in fact, that Madam Symonds was a
contemporary—across-seas—of Madam Pepys, and wore the same garments;
only she apparently had richer and more varied garments than did that
beautiful young woman whose husband was in the immediate employ of the
king.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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