Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Other articles of personal and household comfort were gathered in
London shops by her dutiful son and sent to Madam Symonds. The list is
full of interest, and helps to fill out the picture of daily life. He
despatched to her cloves, nutmegs, spices, eringo roots, “coronation”
and stock-gilly-flower seed, “colly flower seed,” hearth brushes (these
came every year), silver whistles and several pomanders and
pomander-beads, bouquet-glasses (which could hardly have been the bosom
bottles which were worn later), necklaces, amber beads, many and varied
pins, needles, silk lacings, kid gloves, silver ink-boxes, sealing-wax,
gilt trunks, fancy boxes, painted desks, tape, ferret, bobbin, bone
lace, calico, gimp, many yards of ducape, lustring, persian, and other
silk stuffs—all these items of transport show the son’s devoted
selection of the articles his mother wished. Gowns seem never to have
been sent, but manteaus, mantles, and “ferrandine” cloaks appear
frequently. Of course there are some articles which cannot be
positively described to-day, such as the “shape, with ruffles” and
“double pleated drolls” and “lace drolls” which appear several times on
the lists. These “drolls” were, I believe, the “drowlas” of Madame de
Lange, in New Amsterdam. “Men’s knives” occasionally were sent, and
“women’s knives” many times. These latter had hafts of ivory, agate,
and “Ellotheropian.” This Ellotheropian or Alleteropeain or
Illyteropian stone has been ever a great puzzle to me until in another
letter I chanced to find the spelling Hellotyropian; then I knew the
real word was the Heliotropium of the ancients, our blood-stone. It was
a favorite stone of the day not only for those fancy-handled knives,
but for seals, finger-rings and other forms of ornament.
A few books were on the list,—a Greek Lexicon ordered as a gift for a
student; a very costly Bible, bound in velvet, with silver clasps, the
expense of which was carefully detailed down to the Indian silk for the
inner-end leaves; “_Dod on Commandments_—my Ant Jane said you had a
fancie for it, and I have bound it in green plush for you.” Fancy any
one having a fancy for Dod on anything! and fancy Dod in green plush
covers!
CHAPTER V
THE EVOLUTION OF COATS AND WAISTCOATS
_This day the King began to put on his vest; and I did see several
persons of the House of Lords and Commons too, great courtiers who are
in it, being a long cassock close to the body, of long cloth, pinked
with white silk under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with
white ribbon like a pigeon’s leg; and upon the whole I wish the King
may keep it, for it is a very fine and handsome garment._
—“Diary,” SAMUEL PEPYS, October 8, 1666.
_Fashion then was counted a disease and horses died of it._
—“The Gulls Hornbook,” ANDREW DEKKER, 1609.
CHAPTER V
THE EVOLUTION OF COATS AND WAISTCOATS
B
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