Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Masks were in those years in constant wear in the French court and
society, as a protection to the complexion when walking or riding.
Sometimes plain glass was fitted in the eye-holes. French masks had
wires which fastened behind the ears, or a mouthpiece of silver; or
they had an ingenious and simple stay in the form of two strings at the
corners of the mouth-opening of the mask. These strings ended in a
silver button or glass bead. With a bead held firmly in either corner
of her mouth, the mask-wearer could talk. These vizards are seen in old
English wood-cuts, often hanging by the side, fastened to the belt with
a small cord or chain. They brought forth the bitter denunciations of
the old Puritan Stubbes. He writes in his _Anatomie of Abuses_:—
“When they vse to ride abroad, they haue visors made of ueluet (or in
my iudgment they may rather be called inuisories) wherewith they couer
all their faces, hauing holes made in them agaynst their eies, whereout
they looke. So that if a man that knew not their guise before, shoulde
chaunce to meete one of theme, he would thinke he mette a monster or a
deuill; for face he can see none, but two broad holes against their
eyes with glasses in them.”
Masks were certainly worn to a considerable extent in America. As early
as 1645, masks were forbidden in Plymouth, Massachusetts, “for improper
purposes.” When you think of the Plymouth of that year, its few houses
and inhabitants, its desperate struggle to hold its place at all as a
community, the narrow means of its citizens, the comparatively scant
wardrobes of the wives and daughters, this restriction as to
mask-wearing seems a grim jest. They were for sale in Salem and Boston,
black velvet masks worth two shillings each; but these towns were more
flourishing than Plymouth. And New York dames had them, and the
planters’ wives of Virginia and South Carolina.
I suppose Madam Symonds wore her mask when she mounted on a pillion
behind some strong young lad, and rode out to Argilla Farm.
A few years later than the dates when Madam Symonds was ordering these
fashionable articles of dress from England a rhyming catalogue of a
lady’s toilet was written by John Evelyn and entitled, _Mundus
Muliebris or a Voyage to Mary-Land_; it might be a list of Madam
Symonds’s wardrobe. Some of the lines run:—
“One gown of rich black silk, which odd is
Without one coloured embroidered boddice.
Three manteaux, nor can Madam less
Provision have for due undress.
Of under-boddice three neat pair
Embroidered, and of shoes as fair;
Short under petticoats, pure fine,
Some of Japan stuff, some of Chine,
With knee-high galoon bottomed;
Another quilted white and red,
With a broad Flanders lace below.
Three night gowns of rich Indian stuff;
Four cushion-cloths are scarce enough.
A manteau girdle, ruby buckle,
And brilliant diamond ring for knuckle.
Fans painted and perfumed three;
Three muffs of ermine, sable, grey.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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