Two Expeditions into the Interior of Southern Australia — Volume ISturt, Charles
History
Two Expeditions into the Interior of Southern Australia — Volume I
Sturt, Charles
New South Wales -- Discovery and exploration; Sturt, Charles, 1795-1869
As soon as I began to descend to the westward it became necessary to
pay strict and earnest attention to the features of the country through
which I passed, in order to determine more accurately the different
appearances which, as I was led to expect, the rivers would assume. In
the course of my examination I found, first, that the broken country
through which I travelled, was generally covered with a loose, coarse,
and sandy soil; and, secondly, that the ranges were wholly deficient in
that peat formation which fills the valleys, or covers the flat summits
of the hills or mountains, in the northern hemisphere. The peculiar
property of this formation is to retain water like a sponge; and to
this property the regular and constant flow of the rivers descending
from such hills, may, in a great measure, be attributed. In New South
Wales on the contrary, the rains that fall upon the mountains drain
rapidly through a coarse and superficial soil, and pour down their
sides without a moment's interruption. The consequence is that on such
occasions the rivers are subject to great and sudden rises, whereas
they have scarcely water enough to support a current in ordinary
seasons. At one time the traveller will find it impracticable to cross
them: at another he may do so with ease; and only from the remains of
debris in the branches of the trees high above, can he judge of the
furious torrent they must occasionally contain.
This seeming deviation on the part of Nature from her usual laws will
no longer appear such, if we consider its results for a moment. The
very floods which swell the rivers to overflowing, are followed by the
most beneficent effects; and, rude and violent as the means are by
which she accomplishes her purpose, they form, no doubt, a part of that
process by which she preserves the balance of good and evil. Vast
quantities of the best soil have been thus washed down from the
mountains to accumulate in more accessible places. From frequent
depositions, a great extent of country along the banks of every river
and creek has risen high above the influence of the floods, and
constitutes the richest tracts in the colony. The alluvial flats of the
Nepean, the Hawkesbury, and the Hunter, are striking instances of the
truth of these observations; to which the plains of O'Connell and
Bathurst must be added. The only good soil upon the two latter, is in
the immediate neighbourhood of the Macquarie River: but, even close to
its banks, the depositions are of little depth, lying on a coarse
gravelly soil, the decomposition of the nearer ranges. The former is
found to diminish in thickness, according to the concavity of the
valley through which the Macquarie flows, and at length becomes mixed
with the coarser soil. This deposit is alone fit for agricultural
purposes; but it does not necessarily follow that the distant country
is unavailable since it is admitted, that the best grazing tracts are
upon the secondary ranges of granite and porphyry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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