Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West
All this, taken with many a grain, was reasonable. The edge of my
curiosity had been taken off by the Yellala, and nothing new
could be expected from the smaller formations up stream. Time
forbade me to linger at Banza Nkulu. The exorbitant demand had
evidently been made by express desire of Gidi Mavunga, and only a
fortnight's delay could have reduced it to normal dimensions. Yet
with leisure success was evident. All the difficulties of the
Nsundi road would have vanished when faced. The wild people
showed no feeling against foreigners, and the Nkulu linguisters
during their last visit begged me to return as soon as possible
and "no tell lie." I could only promise that their claims should
be laid before the public. Accordingly a report of this trip was
at once sent in to Her Majesty's Foreign Office, and a paper was
read before the British Association of September, 1864.
Early on Thursday morning (Sept. 17) we began the down march. It
was a repetition of the up march, except that all were bent upon
rushing home, like asses to their stables; none of those posés,
or regular halts on the line of march, as practised by well-
trained voyageurs, are known to Congo-land. There was some reason
for the hurry, and travellers in these regions will do well to
remember it, or they may starve with abundance around them. The
kings and chiefs hold it their duty to entertain the outward
bound; but when cloth, beads, and rum have been exhausted, the
returning wanderer sits under a tree instead of entering the
banza, and it is only an exceptional householder who will send
him a few eggs or plantains. They "cut" you, as a rule, more
coolly than ever town man cut a continental acquaintance.
Finally, the self-imposed hardships of the down march break men's
spirits for further attempts, and their cupidity cannot
neutralize their natural indolence thus reinforced.
We entered on the next afternoon Gidi Mavunga's village, where
the lieges received him with shouts and hand-clappings: at the
Papagayo's there was a dance which lasted through that night and
the next. I stayed three days at Chinguvu finishing my sketches,
but to have recovered anything from the guide would have required
three weeks. The old villain relaxed his vigilance over the
women, who for the first time were allowed to enter the doors
without supervision: Merolla treats of this stale trick, and
exclaims,--
"Ah pereat! didicit fallere si qua virum."
I was reminded of the classical sentiment upon the Rio de S.
Francisco ("Highlands of the Brazil," ii. chap, xiv.), where,
amongst other sentiments, the boatmen severely denounce in song
"Mulher que engana tropeiro."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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