My particular acknowledgments are due to Messrs. G. H. Kendrick, Mr. G. T. Bethune Baker, F.L.S., and Miss Wilmott, without whose help the expedition could not have been undertaken, and I must also mention Mr. S. H. Soper, F.R.G.S., another friend whose interest and assistance was of the greatest value to me. A. E. P. CONTENTS CHAPTER I BREAKING THE GROUND PAGE The Author’s many Journeys—New Guinea more Interesting than all— The Second Largest Island in the World, and the last to Guard its Secrets from Man—Its Vast Possibilities to the Trader and the Man of Science—Great Riches in Birds and Insects—770 known Species of Birds—The People—Their Many Dialects—A Geographical Reason for this—Toilsome Travel—Razor-like Ridges in Endless Succession—The Author’s Camps—Journeys Outlined—In Unexplored Country—Gorgeous Scenery—Variations of Temperature—The Chief Bugbear, Transport 17 CHAPTER II DISAPPOINTMENTS IN DUTCH NEW GUINEA Dutch New Guinea—The Coast—Unsavoury Mud-banks—Merauke—The Dutch Settlement described—Its Wonderful Modernity—A Fierce Tribe, the Tugeri, now described for the first time—Their Appearance and Habits—Their Continual Murderous Raids—The Fearful Bamboo Knife— Scientific Work here impossible owing to Danger of going beyond Settlement Boundaries—Outbreak of a Mysterious Disease at Merauke—Its Swift Deadliness—The Symptoms—Determine to leave Dutch New Guinea and prepare for a March into the Unexplored Interior 37 CHAPTER III CHANGES AND STRANGE SCENES We sail to Thursday Island—A Rough Voyage in a Cattle-boat—A Glimpse of Thursday Island—The Wonderful Colour of its Waters—We reach Port Moresby—Contrast to the Scenery of Dutch New Guinea— Magnificent Mountains—Evidences of Drought—Vegetation burnt up— The British Government Post of Port Moresby described—A Good Second to Hades or Aden—The Great Sight of Port Moresby—A Community of Hereditary Potters—The Pottery Trading Fleet—The Strange Vessels called Lakatois—Their Structure—Native Orgies before the Expedition starts—A New Guinea Ballet on Deck— Seclusion of Women after the Young Braves depart with the Fleet— My Inland Expedition fitted out—Official Courtesy—Details of Baggage—Transport procured after Immense Trouble 59 CHAPTER IV WE STRIKE INLAND