Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
The little town of San Diego has undergone no change whatever that I
can see. It certainly has not grown. It is still, like Santa Barbara,
a Mexican town. The four principal houses of the gente de razon--of
the Bandinis, Estudillos, Argüellos, and Picos--are the chief houses
now; but all the gentlemen--and their families, too, I believe--are
gone. The big vulgar shop-keeper and trader, Fitch, is long since
dead; Tom Wrightington, who kept the rival pulpería, fell from his
horse when drunk, and was found nearly eaten up by coyotes; and I can
scarce find a person whom I remember. I went into a familiar one-story
adobe house, with its piazza and earthen floor, inhabited by a
respectable lower-class family by the name of Muchado, and inquired if
any of the family remained, when a bright-eyed middle-aged woman
recognized me, for she had heard I was on board the steamer, and told
me she had married a shipmate of mine, Jack Stewart, who went out as
second mate the next voyage, but left the ship and married and settled
here. She said he wished very much to see me. In a few minutes he
came in, and his sincere pleasure in meeting me was extremely grateful.
We talked over old times as long as I could afford to. I was glad to
hear that he was sober and doing well. Doña Tomasa Pico I found and
talked with. She was the only person of the old upper class that
remained on the spot, if I rightly recollect. I found an American
family here, with whom I dined,--Doyle and his wife, nice young people,
Doyle agent for the great line of coaches to run to the frontier of the
old States.
I must complete my acts of pious remembrance, so I take a horse and
make a run out to the old Mission, where Ben Stimson and I went the
first liberty day we had after we left Boston (ante, p. 115). All has
gone to decay. The buildings are unused and ruinous, and the large
gardens show now only wild cactuses, willows, and a few olive-trees. A
fast run brings me back in time to take leave of the few I knew and who
knew me, and to reach the steamer before she sails. A last look--yes,
last for life--to the beach, the hills, the low point, the distant
town, as we round Point Loma and the first beams of the light-house
strike out towards the setting sun.
Wednesday, August 24th. At anchor at San Pedro by daylight. But
instead of being roused out of the forecastle to row the long-boat
ashore and bring off a load of hides before breakfast, we were served
with breakfast in the cabin, and again took our drive with the wild
horses to the Pueblo and spent the day; seeing nearly the same persons
as before, and again getting back by dark. We steamed again for Santa
Barbara, where we only lay an hour, and passed through its canal and
round Point Conception, stopping at San Luis Obispo to land my friend,
as I may truly call him after this long passage together, Captain
Wilson, whose most earnest invitation to stop here and visit him at his
rancho I was obliged to decline.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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