Dana, Richard Henry, 1815-1882; Sailors; Seafaring life; Voyages and travels
Friday evening, 26th August, we entered the Golden Gate, passed the
light-houses and forts, and clipper ships at anchor, and came to our
dock, with this great city, on its high hills and rising surfaces,
brilliant before us, and full of eager life.
Making San Francisco my head-quarters, I paid visits to various parts
of the State,--down the Bay to Santa Clara, with its live oaks and
sycamores, and its Jesuit College for boys; and San José, where is the
best girls' school in the State, kept by the Sisters of Notre Dame,--a
town now famous for a year's session of "The legislature of a thousand
drinks,"--and thence to the rich Almaden quicksilver mines, returning
on the Contra Costa side through the rich agricultural country, with
its ranchos and the vast grants of the Castro and Soto families, where
farming and fruit-raising are done on so large a scale. Another
excursion was up the San Joaquin to Stockton, a town of some ten
thousand inhabitants, a hundred miles from San Francisco, and crossing
the Tuolumne and Stanislaus and Merced, by the little Spanish town of
Hornitos, and Snelling's Tavern, at the ford of the Merced, where so
many fatal fights are had. Thence I went to Mariposa County, and
Colonel Fremont's mines, and made an interesting visit to "the
Colonel," as he is called all over the country, and Mrs. Fremont, a
heroine equal to either fortune, the salons of Paris and the
drawing-rooms of New York and Washington, or the roughest life of the
remote and wild mining regions of Mariposa,--with their fine family of
spirited, clever children. After a rest there, we went on to Clark's
Camp and the Big Trees, where I measured one tree ninety-seven feet in
circumference without its bark, and the bark is usually eighteen inches
thick; and rode through another which lay on the ground, a shell, with
all the insides out--rode through it mounted, and sitting at full
height in the saddle; then to the wonderful Yo Semite Valley,--itself a
stupendous miracle of nature, with its Dome, its Capitan, its walls of
three thousand feet of perpendicular height,--but a valley of streams,
of waterfalls from the torrent to the mere shimmer of a bridal veil,
only enough to reflect a rainbow, with their plunges of twenty-five
hundred feet, or their smaller falls of eight hundred, with nothing at
the base but thick mists, which form and trickle, and then run and at
last plunge into the blue Merced that flows through the centre of the
valley. Back by the Coulterville trail, the peaks of Sierra Nevada in
sight, across the North Fork of the Merced, by Gentry's Gulch, over
hills and through cañons, to Fremont's again, and thence to Stockton
and San Francisco--all this at the end of August, when there has been
no rain for four months, and the air is dear and very hot, and the
ground perfectly dry; windmills, to raise water for artificial
irrigation of small patches, seen all over the landscape, while we
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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