When we got into the main street the long, low, broken line of
booth-like, wooden, one-storied stores and houses, all looking as if
one strong man could push them down, and one strong team carry them
off, grated a little, I could see, on the feelings of some of the
party. The redeeming feature was the trees, lining the street at long
intervals, darkening the houses a little, but clothing the town, and
giving it an air of age and respectability that was lacking in many of
the bare rows of shanties, dignified with the title of town, that we
had passed in coming here across the continent.
The New England Hotel invited us in. A pretty plane-tree in front
overshadowed the door; and a bright, cheery hostess stood in the
doorway to welcome us, shaking hands, and greeting our large party of
twenty-six in a fashion of freedom to which we had not been used, but
which sounded pleasantly in our travel-worn ears. The house was
tumble-down and shabby, and needed the new coat of paint it received
soon after--but in the corner of the sitting-room stood a good
parlor-organ. The dining-room adjoining had red cloths on the tables,
and gave a full view into the kitchen; but the "beefsteak, mutton-chop,
pork-chop, and hash" were good and well cooked, and contrasted with,
rather than reminded us of, the fare described by Charles Dickens as
offered him in the Eastern States when he visited America thirty-nine
years ago.
The bedrooms, opening all on to the long passage upstairs, with meager
furniture and patchwork quilts, the whole wooden house shaking as we
trotted from room to room, were not so interesting, and tempted no long
delay in bed after the early breakfast-gong had been sounded soon after
six. Breakfast at half-past six, dinner at noon, and supper at
half-past five, only set the clock of our lives a couple of hours
faster than we had been used to; and bed at nine was soon no novelty to
us.
The street in front was a wide sea of slushy mud when we arrived, with
an occasional planked crossing, needing a sober head and a good
conscience to navigate safely after dark; for, when evening had closed
in, the only street-lighting came from the open doors, and through the
filled and dressed windows of the stores.
[Sidenote: _THE BARBER'S SHOP._]
Saloons were forbidden by solemn agreement to all of us, but the
barber's shop was the very pleasant substitute. Two or three big
easy-chairs in a row, with a stool in front of each. Generally filled
they were by the grave and reverend seigniors of the city--each man
reposing calmly, draped in white, while he enjoyed the luxury, under
the skillful hands of the barber or his man, of a clean shave. At the
far end of the shop stood the round iron stove, with a circle of wooden
chairs and an old sofa. And here we enjoyed the parliament of free
talk. The circle was a frequently changing one, but the types were
constant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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