Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
In spite of the supercargo's announcement that the steamer would
arrive on the twentieth, she did not come till the first of the
following month. This kept me constantly on the look out and ready
for departure, and unable to do anything of importance. At last we
sailed, touching the Banks Islands on our route; and after enjoying
a few days of civilization on board, I went ashore at Tassimaloun,
on the south-west corner of Santo, where I had the pleasure of being
Mr. C.'s guest. My object there was to follow the traces of the pygmy
population, but as the natives mostly live inland, and only rarely come
to the coast, I had to go in search of them. At that time I was often
ill with fever, and could not do as much as I could have wished. Once
I tried to reach the highest mountain of the islands, Santo Peak,
but my guides from the mission village of Vualappa led me for ten
days through most uninteresting country and an unfriendly population
without even bringing me to the foot of the mountain. I had several
unpleasant encounters with the natives, during one of which I fully
expected to be murdered, and when our provisions were exhausted we had
to return to the coast. But every time I saw the tall pyramid of Santo
Peak rising above the lower hills I longed to be the first European
to set foot on it, and I tried it at last from the Tassiriki side.
After long consultations with the natives, I at last found two men
who were willing to guide me to the mountain. I decided to give up
all other plans, and to take nothing with me but what was strictly
necessary. On the second day we climbed a hill which my guides insisted
was the Peak, the highest point of the island. I pointed out a higher
summit, but they said that we would never get up there before noon,
and, indeed, they did everything they could to delay our advance,
by following wrong trails and being very slow about clearing the
way. Still, after an hour's hard work, we were on the point in
question, and from there I could see the real Santo Peak, separated
from us by only one deep valley, as far as I could judge in the tangle
of forest that covered everything. The guides again pretended that we
were standing on the highest mountain then, and that it would take
at least a fortnight to reach the real Peak. I assured them that I
meant to be on its top by noon, and when they showed no inclination
whatever to go on, I left them and went on with my boys. We had to
dive into a deep ravine, where we found a little water and refilled
our bottles. Then we had to ascend the other side, which was trying,
as we had lost the trail and had to climb over rocks and through the
thickest bush I ever met. The ground was covered with a dense network
of moss-grown trunks that were mouldering there, through which we
often fell up to our shoulders, while vines and ferns wound round
our bodies, so that we did our climbing more with our arms than with
our feet. After a while one of the guides joined us, but he did not
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