Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
know the way; at last we found it, but there were many ups and downs
before we attained the summit. The weather now changed, and we were
suddenly surrounded by the thick fog that always covers the Peak before
noon. The great humidity and the altitude combine to create a peculiar
vegetation in this region; the tree-ferns are tremendously developed,
and the natives pretend that a peculiar species of pigeon lives here.
I was surprised to find any paths at all up here; but the natives come
here to shoot pigeons, and several valleys converge at Santo Peak,
so that there are important passes near its summits. One of my boys
gave out here, and we left him to repose. The rest of the way was not
difficult, but we were all very tired when we reached the top. There
was another summit, a trifle higher, separated from the first by
a long ridge, but we contented ourselves with the one we were on,
especially as we could see absolutely nothing. I was much disappointed,
as on a clear day the view of Santo and the whole archipelago must
be wonderful. I deposited a bottle with a paper of statistics,
which some native has probably found by this time. We were wet and
hungry, and as it was not likely that the fog would lift, we began the
descent. Without the natives I never could have found the way back in
the fog; but they followed the path easily enough, and half-way down
we met the other guides coming slowly up the mountain. They seemed
pleased to have escaped the tiresome climb; possibly they may have
had other reasons for their dislike of the Peak. They were rather
disappointed, I thought, that I had had my way in spite of their
resistance. They now promised to lead us back by another route, and
we descended a narrow valley for several hours; then came a long halt,
as my guides had to chat with friends in a village we passed. At last
I fairly had to drive them away, and we went down another valley,
where we found a few women bathing in a stream, who ran away at the
sight of us. We bathed, and then enjoyed an excellent meal of taro,
which one of the guides had brought from the village. Before leaving,
one of my boys carefully collected all the peelings of my food, and
threw them into the river, so that I might not be poisoned by them,
he said. A last steep climb ended the day's exertions, and we entered
the village where we were to sleep. While the guides bragged to the
men of their feats, the women brought us food and drink, and I had
a chance to rest and look about me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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