Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
We had passed the flat cliffs, covered only with iron-wood trees,
and now the water was bordered by high coral plateaux, from which a
luxuriant forest fell down in heavy cascades, in a thickness almost
alarming, like the eruption of a volcano, when one cloud pushes
the other before it and new ones are ever behind. It seemed as if
each tree were trying to strangle the others in a fight for life,
while the weakest, deprived of their ground, clung frantically to
the shore and would soon be pushed far out over the smooth, shining
sea. There the last dense crowns formed the beautiful fringe of the
green carpet stretched soft and thick over the earth.
Only here and there the shore was free, showing the coral strand as
a line of white that separated the blue of the sea from the green
of the forest and intensified every colour in the landscape. It was
a vision of the most magnificent luxuriance, so different from the
view which the barren shores of eastern New Caledonia offer.
The bay became narrower and we approached the port proper. Small
islands appeared, between which we had glimpses of cool bays
across glassy, deep-green water, and before us lay a broken line of
light-coloured houses along the beach, while on the plateau behind
we could see the big court-house and some villas.
A little distance off-shore we dropped anchor, and were soon surrounded
by boats, from which the inhabitants came on board. A kind planter
brought me and my belongings ashore, and I took up my quarters in
the only hotel in Port Vila, the so-called "blood-house," thus named
because of its history.
Vila is merely the administration centre, and consists of nothing but
a few stores and the houses of the Condominium officials. There is
little life, and only the arrival of the ships brings some excitement,
so that the stranger feels bored and lonely, especially as the
"blood-house " does not offer many comforts and the society there is
not of the choicest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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