Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
"Well, boys, are you ready?" "Yes, Masta," they answer, with
conviction, though they are far from ready, as they are still tying
their bundles. After waiting a while, I say, "Well, me, me go." They
answer, "All right, you go." I take a few steps and wait again. One
of them appears in front of the hut to look for a stick to hang his
bundle on, another cannot find his pipe; still, after a quarter of an
hour, we can really start. The boys sing and laugh, but as we enter
the forest darkness they suddenly become quiet, as if the sternness
of the bush oppressed their souls. We talk but little, and only in
undertones. These woods have none of the happy, sensuous luxuriance
which fancy lends to every tropical forest; there is a harshness,
a selfish struggle for the first place among the different plants, a
deadly battling for air and light. Giant trees with spreading crowns
suppress everything around, kill every rival and leave only small
and insignificant shrubs alive. Between them, smaller trees strive
for light; on tall, straight, thin stems they have secured a place and
developed a crown. Others look for light in roundabout ways, making use
of every gap their neighbours leave, and rise upward in soft coils. All
these form a high roof, under which younger and weaker plants lead a
skimped life--hardwood trees on thin trunks, with small, unassuming
leaves, and vulgar softwood with large, flabby foliage. Around and
across all this wind the parasites, lianas, rotang, some stretched
like ropes from one trunk to another, some rising in elegant curves
from the ground, some attached to other trunks and sucking out their
life with a thousand roots, others interlaced in the air in distorted
curves. All these grow and thrive on the bodies of former generations
on the damp, mouldy ground, where leaves rot and trunks decay, and
where it is always wet, as never a sunbeam can strike in so far.
Thus it is sad in the forest, and strangely quiet, as in a churchyard,
for not even the wind can penetrate the green surface. It passes
rushing through the crowns, so that sometimes we catch an upward
glimpse of bright yellow sunshine as though out of a deep gully. And
as men in sternest fight are silent, using all their energy for one
purpose, so here there is no sign of gay and happy life, there are
no flowers or coloured leaves, but the endless, dull green, in an
infinity of shapes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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