Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Even the animals seem to shun the dark forest depths; only on the
highest trees a few pigeons bathe in the sun, and as they fly heavily
over the wood, their call sounds, melancholy as a sad dream, from
afar. A lonely butterfly flutters among the trees, a delicate being,
unused to this dark world, seeking in vain for a ray of sun and a
breath of fresh air. Sometimes we hear the grunt of an invisible
pig, the breaking of branches and the rustling of leaves as it runs
away. Moisture and lowering gloom brood over the swampy earth; one
would not be surprised if suddenly the ground were to move and wriggle
like slimy snakes tightly knotted around each other. Thorns catch the
limbs, vines catch the feet, and the wanderer, stumbling along, almost
fancies he can hear the spiteful laughter of malicious demons. One
feels tired, worried, unsafe, as if in an enemy's country, helplessly
following the guide, who walks noiselessly on the soft ground. With
a branch he sweeps aside the innumerable spider-webs that droop
across the path, to keep them from hanging in our faces. Silently
the other men follow behind; once in a while a dry branch snaps or
a trunk creaks.
In this dark monotony we go on for hours, without an outlook, and
seemingly without purpose or direction, on a hardly visible path, in
an endless wilderness. We pass thousands of trees, climb over hundreds
of fallen trunks and brush past millions of creepers. Sometimes we
enter a clearing, where a giant tree has fallen or a village used to
stand. Sometimes great coral rocks lie in the thicket; the pools at
their foot are a wallowing-place for pigs.
It is a confusing walk; one feels quite dizzy with the constantly
passing stems and branches, and a white man would be lost in this
wilderness without the native, whose home it is. He sees everything,
every track of beast or bird, and finds signs on every tree and vine,
peculiarities of shape or grouping, which he recognizes with unerring
certainty. He describes the least suggestion of a trail, a footprint,
or a knife-cut, or a torn leaf. As the white man finds his way about
a city by means of street signs, so the savage reads his directions
in the forest from the trees and the ground. He knows every plant and
its uses, the best wood for fires; he knows when he may expect to find
water, and which liana makes the strongest rope. Yet even he seems
to feel something of the appalling loneliness of the primeval forest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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