Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Such plantations, where the natives lack neither food nor good
treatment, can only have a favourable influence on the race, and it is
not quite clear why the Presbyterian missionaries do not like their
young men to go in for plantation work. Owing to the good treatment
of their hands the Messrs. Th. have always had enough labourers, and
have been able to develop their plantation wonderfully. It consists
almost exclusively of cocoa-nut palms, planted on ground wrested from
the forest in a hard fight. When I was there the trees were not yet in
full bearing, but the proprietors had every reason to expect a very
considerable income in a few years. The cultivation of the cocoa-nut
is extremely simple; the only hard work is the first clearing of the
ground, and keeping the young trees free from lianas. Once they are
grown up, they are able to keep down the bush themselves to a certain
extent, and then the work consists in picking up the ripe nuts from
the ground, husking and drying them. The net profit from one tree
is estimated at one shilling per annum. Besides the cultivation of
their plantation the Messrs. Th. plied a flourishing trade in coprah
and sandalwood all along the west coast of Santo, which they visited
frequently in their cutter. This same cutter was often a great help to
me, and, indeed, her owners always befriended me in the most generous
way, and many are the pleasant hours I spent in their company.
After dinner that first day we went to the village where the
"sing-sing" was to take place. There was no moon, and the night was
pitch dark. The boys had made torches of palm-leaves, which they
kept burning by means of constant swinging. They flared up in dull,
red flames, lighting up the nearest surroundings, and we wound our
way upwards through the trunk vines and leaves that nearly shut in
the path. It seemed as if we were groping about without a direction,
as if looking for a match in a dark room. Soon, however, we heard
the dull sound of the drums, and the noise led us to the plateau,
till we could see the red glare of a fire and hear the rough voices
of men and the shrill singing of women.
Unnoticed, we entered the dancing-ground. A number of men were standing
in a circle round a huge fire, their silhouettes cutting sharply into
the red glare. Out of a tangle of clubs, rifles, plumes, curly wigs,
round heads, bows and violently gesticulating arms, sounds an irregular
shrieking, yelling, whistling and howling, uniting occasionally to
a monotonous song. The men stamp the measure, some begin to whirl
about, others rush towards the fire; now and then a huge log breaks
in two and crowns the dark, excited crowd with a brilliant column of
circling sparks. Then everybody yells delightedly, and the shouting
and dancing sets in with renewed vigour. Everyone is hoarse, panting
and covered with perspiration, which paints light streaks on the
sooty faces and bodies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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