Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Our path leads steeply up and down, over loose coral blocks, between
ferns and mosses; lianas serve as ropes to help us climb over coral
rocks, and with our knives we hew a passage through thorny creepers
and thick bush. The road runs in zigzags, sometimes turning back
to go round fallen trunks and swampy places, so that we really walk
three or four times the distance to Hog Harbour. Our guide uses his
bush-knife steadily and to good purpose: he sees where the creepers
interlace and which branch is the chief hindrance, and in a few deft
cuts the tangle falls.
At last--it seems an eternity since we dived into the forest--we hear
from afar, through the green walls, a dull roaring, and as we go on,
we distinguish the thunder of the breakers like the beating of a great
pulse. Suddenly the thicket lightens, and we stand on the beach,
blinded by the splendour of light that pours on us, but breathing
freely in the fresh air that blows from the far horizon. We should like
to stretch out on the sand and enjoy the free space after the forest
gloom; but after a short rest we go on, for this is only half-way to
our destination, and we dive once more into the semi-darkness.
Towards evening we reach the plantation of the Messrs. Th. They are
Australians of good family, and their place is splendidly kept. I
was struck by the cleanliness of the whole establishment, the good
quarters of the native labourers, the quiet way in which work was
done, the pleasant relations between masters and hands, and last,
but not least, the healthy and happy appearance of the latter.
The brothers had just finished the construction of what was quite a
village, its white lime walls shining invitingly through the green
of the cocoa-nut palms. There was a large kitchen, a storehouse, a
tool-shed, a bakery, a dwelling-house and a light, open summer-house,
a delightful spot, where we dined in the cool sea-breeze and sipped
whisky in the moonlight, while the palm-leaves waved dreamily. Then
there was a large poultry yard, pigsty and paddocks, and along the
beach were the boat-houses, drying-sheds and storehouses, shaded by
old trees. The boys' quarters were roomy, eight sleeping together in
an airy hut, while the married couples had houses of their own. The
boys slept on high beds, each with his "bocase" underneath, to hold his
possessions, while all sorts of common property hung in the roof--nets,
fish-spears, bows, guns, etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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