Another most striking feature of the performance was exhibited by a
score of old men, who sat cross-legged in the little pulpits, which
encircled the trunks of the immense trees growing in the middle of the
enclosure. These venerable gentlemen, who I presume were the priests,
kept up an uninterrupted monotonous chant, which was nearly drowned in
the roar of drums. In the right hand they held a finely-woven grass
fan, with a heavy black wooden handle, curiously chased: these fans
they kept in continual motion.
But no attention whatever seemed to be paid to the drummers or to the
old priests, the individuals who composed the vast crowd present being
entirely taken up in chatting and laughing with one another, smoking,
drinking arva, and eating. For all the observation it attracted, or the
good it achieved, the whole savage orchestra might, with great
advantage to its own members and the company in general, have ceased
the prodigious uproar they were making.
In vain I questioned Kory-Kory and others of the natives, as to the
meaning of the strange things that were going on; all their
explanations were conveyed in such a mass of outlandish gibberish and
gesticulation that I gave up the attempt in despair. All that day the
drums resounded, the priests chanted, and the multitude feasted and
roared till sunset, when the throng dispersed, and the Taboo Groves
were again abandoned to quiet and repose. The next day the same scene
was repeated until night, when this singular festival terminated.
CHAPTER XXIII
Ideas suggested by the Feast of Calabashes—Effigy of a dead warrior—A
singular superstition—The priest Kolory and the god Moa Artua—Amazing
religious observance—A dilapidated shrine—Kory-Kory and the idol—An
inference.
Although I had been baffled in my attempts to learn the origin of the
Feast of Calabashes, yet it seemed very plain to me that it was
principally, if not wholly, of a religious character.
Yet, notwithstanding all I observed on this occasion, I am free to
confess my almost entire inability to gratify any curiosity that may be
felt with regard to the theology of the valley. I doubt whether the
inhabitants themselves could do so. They are either too lazy or too
sensible to worry themselves about abstract points of religious belief.
While I was among them, they never held any synods or councils to
settle the principles of their faith by agitating them. An unbounded
liberty of conscience seemed to prevail. Those who pleased to do so
were allowed to repose implicit faith in an ill-favoured god, with a
large bottle-nose, and fat shapeless arms crossed upon his breast;
whilst others worshipped an image which, having no likeness either in
heaven or on earth, could hardly be called an idol. As the islanders
always maintained a discreet reserve with regard to my own peculiar
views on religion, I thought it would be excessively ill-bred in me to
pry into theirs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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