The most simple manner in which this operation is performed, and, I
think, the best, consists in placing any number of the freshly-plucked
fruit, when in a particular state of greenness, among the embers of a
fire, in the same way that you would roast a potato. After a lapse of
ten or fifteen minutes, the green rind embrowns and cracks, showing
through the fissures in its sides the milk-white interior. As soon as
it cools the rind drops off, and you then have the soft round pulp in
its purest and most delicious state. Thus eaten, it has a mild and
pleasing flavour.
Sometimes after having been roasted in the fire, the natives snatch it
briskly from the embers, and permitting it to slip out of the yielding
rind into a vessel of cold water, stir up the mixture, which they call
“bo-a-sho.” I never could endure this compound, and indeed the
preparation is not greatly in vogue among the more polite Typees.
There is one form, however, in which the fruit is occasionally served,
that renders it a dish fit for a king. As soon as it is taken from the
fire the exterior is removed, the core extracted, and the remaining
part is placed in a sort of shallow stone mortar, and briskly worked
with a pestle of the same substance. While one person is performing
this operation, another takes a ripe cocoa-nut, and breaking it in
half, which they also do very cleverly, proceeds to grate the juicy
meat into fine particles. This is done by means of a piece of
mother-of-pearl shell, lashed firmly to the extreme end of a heavy
stick, with its straight side accurately notched like a saw. The stick
is sometimes a grotesquely-formed limb of a tree, with three or four
branches twisting from its body like so many shapeless legs, and
sustaining it two or three feet from the ground.
The native, first placing a calabash beneath the nose, as it were, of
his curious-looking log-steed, for the purpose of receiving the grated
fragments as they fall, mounts astride of it as if it were a
hobby-horse, and twirling the inside of one of his hemispheres of
cocoa-nut around the sharp teeth of the mother-of-pearl shell, the pure
white meat falls in snowy showers into the receptacle provided. Having
obtained a quantity sufficient for his purpose, he places it in a bag
made of the net-like fibrous substance attached to all cocoa-nut trees,
and compressing it over the bread-fruit, which being now sufficiently
pounded, is put into a wooden bowl—extracts a thick creamy milk. The
delicious liquid soon bubbles round the fruit, and leaves it at last
just peeping above its surface.
This preparation is called “kokoo,” and a most lucious preparation it
is. The hobby-horse and the pestle and mortar were in great requisition
during the time I remained in the house of Marheyo, and Kory-Kory had
frequent occasion to show his skill in their use.
But the great staple articles of food into which the bread-fruit is
converted by these natives are known respectively by the names of Amar
and Poee-Poee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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