Tyrol (Austria) -- Description and travel; Tyrol (Austria) -- History
The path is dotted here and there by tiny buff-coloured chapels,
painted a sky blue inside, marking the stations of the cross; and from
almost all, as one turns round and faces the way one has come, or
looks out over the valley below, there is some charming view, or tiny
tree-framed vista, to arouse one's interest and delight one's eyes.
The church, were it not so isolated, and set amid greenery, and
surrounded with flower-bedecked grass, would strike one as garish, so
bright in tone are the colours with which it is adorned. But somehow
or other there, amid silence scarcely ever disturbed by the noises of
the village and only occasionally broken by the musical tinkle of cow
bells, and in a sunshine and air which is so bright and breezy and
clear, one's artistic sense seems to rest unshocked by the vividness
of the distemper and paint, and the crudity of the decorations.
[Sidenote: THE MARTINSWAND]
The village is, of course, very closely connected with several
incidents in the defence of Tyrol against the various Bavarian
invasions; and in the immediate neighbourhood is the Martinswand,
which rises sheer from the valley below Zirl, and was the scene,
according to tradition, of a perilous hunting adventure of the Emperor
Maximilian. The story is as follows: It was on Easter Monday, in the
year 1493,[27] when "Kaiser Max," as he was familiarly and
affectionately called by his Tyrolese subjects, was staying at
Weierburg, that he determined to set out on one of his favourite
hunting expeditions on the Zirlergebirge. There are many accounts of
what happened, but one of the most credited says that the chamois
which the Emperor had been stalking suddenly led him down the
precipitous face of the Martinswand.
[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN'S EXPLOIT]
Intrepid hunter as he was, however, the steepness of the terrible
descent, which suddenly opened up beneath his feet, did not quench his
ardour for the chase nor deter him. But unfortunately, in his haste in
scrambling down the rocks, the iron nails in his hunting boots were
torn out one by one, until when he at last reached a rocky ledge
scarcely a foot in width there was but a single spike left in either
of them. To descend further was impossible, and upon glancing upward
along the path he had come, the Emperor at once saw that retreat by
the same way was equally hazardous. So there he hung literally
between earth and sky, visible as a mere speck from the valley which
yawned beneath him. A less fearless sportsman might well have been
unnerved by the position in which he found himself, or exhausted by
the strain put upon him. But the Emperor was made of tough and
enduring stuff, and his nerves were iron. Not only did he manage to
retain his foothold at that dizzy height, but he succeeded in nerving
himself to look about him, and after doing so for some time discovered
near by a small cleft or cavity in the rock which would afford him at
least a better foothold, if not actual protection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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