Yet it is not well to depart leaving unexplored the mountainous peninsula of Inishowen which separates Lough Swilly from Lough Foyle. This great ridge of land is dominated by the graceful shape of Slieve Snacht ("Snow Mountain"), a model of what mountains should be: bold and peaked, yet with swelling curves that balance on either flank, it fills the centre of a distance more impressively than far loftier hills. Inishowen was owned by the O'Doghertys, a clan who, tossed between Tyrone and Tirconnell, had at least great staying power, for the saying is--you cannot beat a bush in Inishowen without "rising" an O'Dogherty. Their castles remain, and at Green Castle, on Lough Foyle, is the work of greater men, Norman-planned, Richard de Burgo's fortress. Many traces, too, of a far older period are to be seen. At Carrowmore, not far from Culdaff, is a "souterrain" with five chambers--a great mansion, in short, for these burrowers. Rivers and lakes, too, are there with fair fishing, though I believe that a certain old professor in Derry has skimmed the cream of it all in his learned leisure, any time this fifty years. But the Castle River at Buncrana is a fine salmon stream still, and the links there constitute an attraction for very capable golfers--though not equal to those at Port Salon on the opposite shore. In a word, if you cannot get to the west of Lough Swilly you may be very well content with the east of it; and though much of infinite beauty and interest lies beyond, when you have seen and known Lough Swilly and its shores, and the people who live on them--that mixed race, Scot and Irish, lowland and highland, Protestant and Catholic, all neighbourly together--why, at least you will have had a very fair chance to know and love, not the Ulster that people rant about or rail at, but Ulster as it really is. PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN _At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ Transcriber's Notes The Table of Contents has been added for convenience. Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks. Page 34: Replaced the oe ligature with oe in the two instances of "Phoenix." End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Ulster, by Stephen Lucius Gwynn