'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
Once when travelling from Kabul to Peshawar, and after being seven or
eight hours in the saddle, I asked the sowars with me how far it was
to the village by which we intended camping. One usually is rather
interested in knowing how much farther one has to go after several hours’
riding. He told me that it was between one to two kro ahead, but we did
not get to camp until after three hours’ further riding. So I henceforth
made it a custom to inquire the distance in hours, and found it less
disappointing.
On arriving within a few miles of Kandahar, the prince was met by
the General commanding that district and the principal officers, who
dismounted at a distance from him, and came up with heads uncovered. When
they reached him they kissed his foot, and then, taking his hand between
both of theirs, placed it on each eye in turn, and kissed it also; this
being the Afghan custom when acknowledging their chief or swearing
allegiance. Near the city the troops of the garrison were drawn up,
together with the artillery, and the latter fired the royal salute as the
prince rode up. The prince then inspected the troops, and addressed a few
words to them, after which, followed by all the officers and officials,
he repaired to the musjid for prayers, while I rode on to the city to
find the quarters which had been allotted to me.
The road _viâ_ Kandahar is not one which is often used when travelling
from India to Kabul, the road from Peshawar through the Khyber Pass being
the direct route, and the journey by that road occupies about eight days
when travelling with little luggage and doing forced marches, while the
route _viâ_ Kandahar and Ghazni takes three or four weeks. There are
no roads for wheeled traffic, nor are there any railways, and one must
either ride or be carried in a sort of sedan chair, suspended from the
backs of two horses. The Afghan rulers are greatly prejudiced against
railways, and if one but mentions such a scheme ulterior designs are at
once suspected. Yet a proper scheme of railways to open up the country
would make it rich and prosperous, and do away with the present universal
poverty and misery.
The Shahzada on leaving Kabul for England had been sent _viâ_ Peshawar
by the late Amir, and arrangements had been made for him to return _viâ_
Kandahar, in order that he might see as much as possible of the country.
Since he came from Russia, a little boy of nine, he had never been more
than a few miles out of Kabul, for the Amir did not encourage the members
of his family to travel unless of necessity. The Amir also wished him to
stop in Kandahar on his return journey to inquire into matters concerning
its government, because for many years there had been complaints from the
people of the oppression of the governors and absence of justice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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