'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
The Shahzada left Kandahar the following week, the intervening time being
taken up in preparations for the journey, although such preparation might
easily have been completed in half the time; but it is not the habit
of the people to rush things. Their custom is, instead, to put off all
they can until to-morrow, or the day after, that for preference. The
first day’s camp was only twelve miles or so out of Kandahar, for it is
customary always to make the first day’s march a short one, in order
to prepare the horses and pack animals for the ensuing journey, and it
affords a means of testing the arrangements of the march generally.
The route to Kabul lay through Khilat, Mukur, and Ghazni. The road as
far as Khilat, which took four days’ journey, runs in a north-easterly
direction, and mostly alongside the river, which flows down towards
Kandahar from the mountains beyond. The track rises gradually over a
rather flat country, but there are mountain ranges at a little distance
on both sides. Beyond that to Mukur, another four days’ journey, the
road skirts the foot of some mountain ranges, and forms a fair road for
travelling without any difficult passes to get over.
From Mukur to Ghazni it runs over a high table-land, with mountain
ranges on either side, which, running in the same direction, give it the
appearance of an immense roadway. It took four days to cross this and get
to Ghazni, and it was by far the coldest part of the journey, for the
wind was icy, and its keenness such that it pierced the thickest clothing
I had. Although the sun was bright during the day it had no warmth, and
the surrounding mountains were covered with snow, but it was not until
the day before we reached Ghazni that snow fell, and made sleeping under
canvas more unpleasant than it had been. It came on at night, and when I
awoke in the morning I found it covering the boxes in my tent and my bed
too, for the wind had blown the flap of the tent open and allowed the
snow to drift in. It was chilly dressing before the sun was up, and as my
clothes, which I had thrown over a chair, were also covered with snow, I
had to get dry ones out of my boxes, the while being lightly clad in a
night-suit and slippers.
That day’s march to Ghazni was a trying one. Before this the days had
been bright and the air dry, but the moisture given out by the snow made
the wind still more biting, and we had to dismount occasionally to bring
some feeling into hands and feet, and to rub noses and ears to prevent
frostbite. Many of the Afghans wore hoods shaped like Balaklava caps
which left only the eyes exposed, and I thought them a very sensible
protection against such severe weather, and wished I had one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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