'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
The Amir had given orders that I was to be treated with great honour and
courtesy, and the house in which I had been given quarters was the new
Mihman khana or Guest-house, in which the Amir himself had been stopping
until a few days before. It is an extensive square building with large
rooms, originally intended for one of the Amir’s summer palaces, and is
situated on the outskirts of the new city. An extensive garden surrounds
the house, and the whole is enclosed by a high wall, and in one of the
walls is a covered gateway, on either side of which are rooms for the use
of the outer guard. Outhouses are built on the inner side of the wall for
the use of the servants, and at the end of the outhouses is the kitchen,
and adjoining that the hamam (Turkish bath), without which, no large
house in Kabul is considered complete. It was in this hamam that I had
the day before enjoyed the first comfortable bath since leaving Kandahar.
The hamam consists of two rooms, one opening into the other, with domed
roofs, the floors flagged with large stone slabs, and the ceilings and
walls plastered with cement. The rooms are heated from a fireplace built
outside, the flue from which branches out under the inner chamber, and
up through the walls of the outer one. The wall at the fireplace end of
the inner chamber is double, and the intervening space is occupied by two
cisterns, the one for hot water being immediately over the fire, and the
other for cold water alongside it, and pipes fitted with taps convey the
water to the inner room. The inner chamber is the hot one, and is used
for ablutions, while the outer one is for cooling down in and dressing.
It is not advisable to spend too much time in these hamams, as the air,
for want of proper ventilation, is rather foul, and also, as the stone
flags are not too well jointed, the gases from the fire get in, so that a
prolonged visit generally ends in a bad headache. They are, nevertheless,
a great convenience in the cold weather, which is much more severe than
the average English winter, but they take about two days’ firing to get
properly heated, and must be fired every day if wanted for regular use.
Once heated, however, it requires but little fuel to keep the temperature
up.
Accompanied by the translator, I rode off soon after midday to keep the
appointment made by the Amir, but about halfway to the palace we were met
by a messenger bringing a note. It was from the Amir, saying, that as he
had risen late, he would not be able to see me at the appointed time, and
therefore told me to come an hour later. To have a letter putting off the
appointment to a later hour is an extreme mark of honour, for usually
when one is ordered to be present at an appointed time, one has to sit
and wait if the Amir is not ready to receive.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account