'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History; Kabul (Afghanistan)
After spending some hours with the Amir, I asked permission to leave,
and as I stood up to go he told me I was to come to him the next day,
and very often after that, for he wished to see much of me. His asking
me to come often was another mark of extreme honour, and showed that
I enjoyed great favour, and there is nothing an ambitious man in that
country covets so much as being allowed often in the Amir’s presence, and
there is a good deal of scheming done to be able to do so. For one thing,
it is a sign of the highest favour and confidence, and for another all
men regard that man as one to be fawned on and flattered; and although
he may be hated by the envious, he is also feared, and becomes a man of
consequence.
The next two months or so I spent in the Mihman khana (Guest-house),
occupying myself in preparing a scheme for the development of the
resources of the country, which the Amir had asked me to write. He was
good enough to give me very high praise for it, but very few of the
proposals embodied in the scheme were carried out. I also rode a good
deal about the surrounding country, and through the bazars of the city,
for there is little else to do as a means of recreation.
Kabul is situated in the midst of a large valley, surrounded with
mountains at distances varying from fifteen to twenty miles. The small
ranges of hills, which rise up out of the plain here and there, give a
broken-up appearance to the country, so that the whole of the valley
is not discernible except from a height. One of these ranges, the Sher
Darwaza (Lion of the gate), is immediately south of the city, and on
the west rise the Asman Heights. Between the two the Kabul river flows,
coming from the south-west. Along the crest of the heights is an old
wall, mostly in ruins, and built in the usual way of mud and stone. It
follows the undulations of the summits, and running down to the pass
through which the river flows, it rises up again and winds along the
heights on the opposite side. Formerly, the wall crossed the river by
means of a brick bridge, but there is nothing to be seen of the bridge
now except the ruined abutments. This wall was built many years ago as a
protection against the raids of the wild tribes inhabiting the country
south-west of Kabul, who frequently fell upon the city in great numbers,
putting the people to the sword and carrying off all the loot they could
get, including women and cattle, both of which are looked upon in much
the same light in Afghanistan.
The country round Kabul is well cultivated, and as there is little
rainfall irrigation is resorted to for watering the crops. Trees have of
late years been planted along most of the roads leading from the city,
and some are to be seen in the walled-in gardens which dot the plain
here and there, but on the hills round about the absence of trees and
vegetation makes them look very bare and desolate by contrast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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