Under the Red Crescent: Adventures of an English Surgeon with the Turkish Army at Plevna and Erzeroum 1877-1878Ryan, Charles S. (Charles Snodgrass)
History
Under the Red Crescent: Adventures of an English Surgeon with the Turkish Army at Plevna and Erzeroum 1877-1878
Ryan, Charles S. (Charles Snodgrass)
Russo-Turkish War, 1877-1878 -- Personal narratives
During my stay in Stamboul I often walked through the bazaars, where
solemn old Turks in baggy breeches sought to swindle me with polite
decorum, and where the whole atmosphere breathed of the _Arabian
Nights_. One half expected to see Prince Camaralzaman come swaggering
down the street, with his scimitar clanking on the pavement behind him;
or Amina or Zobeide, heavily veiled, and with only her dark eyes showing
through the _yashmak's_ folds, slide past demurely with a sidelong
glance at the stranger from the West.
The population of Constantinople do not believe in overwork; and for
business purposes there are practically three Sundays in the
week--namely, the Turkish Sunday, which falls on our Friday; the Jewish
Sunday, which falls on Saturday; and the Christian Sunday. I went out
one day to the "Sweet Waters," a favourite picnic place near the head of
the Golden Horn, where the Turkish women and children enjoy their
holiday under the trees, and the real Turkey lolly-men drive a thriving
trade in sweetmeats and sherbet. It was curious to note how the veneer
of Western social routine was superimposed upon the changeless
institutions of the East. I saw the ladies from the harems of sundry
wealthy Turkish gentlemen driving out to "Sweet Waters" in the afternoon
in carriages as perfectly appointed as any that roll through Hyde Park
or the Bois de Boulogne in the height of the London or Paris season. Two
ladies from one harem generally occupied one carriage; and the gigantic
eunuch on the box, who was responsible for them while they were out
under his charge, would use his London carriage whip without hesitation
on the heads and shoulders of any young Turkish or Giaour mashers who
attempted to make eyes at the closely guarded beauties.
I spent many a pleasant hour too in the long, narrow _caïques_ that
plied for hire on the waters of the Golden Horn like the gondolas of
Venice; but I still had much to see when, after a week's stay, an
official communication was handed to me informing me that I had been
appointed regimental surgeon to the Kyrchehir Regiment, so named from
the town in Asia Minor where it had been raised. I packed my portmanteau
at once, and followed the messenger, who led me to the barracks where
the regiment was quartered, and where I was introduced to my new
colonel. He was most polite, and invited me to have supper with him; and
then it was that I had my first really Turkish meal. I cannot truthfully
say that I enjoyed it; and when my host, to mark the warmth of his
hospitality, picked up a piece of chicken off his own plate in his
fingers and placed it in my mouth, I must confess that I almost spoilt
all my chances of a distinguished military career by an instantaneous
attack of nausea. I spent the night in the barracks tossing sleeplessly
on a divan, and soon after daybreak marched down with my regiment to the
railway station.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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