There are other restaurants that are much frequented by the artists of
the quarter:--the “Blue Cockatoo,” in Cheyne Walk, near Oakley Street,
and the “Good Intent,” 316 King’s Road, and a new and yet more
attractive one on the corner of Arthur Street with the enticing name of
“The Good Humoured Ladies.”
Chelsea is full of interesting shops. The Chelsea Book Club is on the
Embankment by Church Street--its delights must be sampled to be
realised--and next door there is a queer handmade toy shop called
Pomona--why Pomona?
Across the road is Chelsea Old Church, with its high
seventeenth-century tower. To me its interior is the most satisfying in
London. The spirit of ancient days dwells there, untouched by modern
currents of unrest, and in the tranquil beauty there is no jarring note.
Sir Thomas More was one of its celebrated parishioners--you may see his
monument and the epitaph he wrote himself.
What a pleasant, kindly, independent spirit had this great Chancellor,
who donned the humble surplice of a parish clerk and sang in the choir
unperturbed by the remonstrances of even so great a personage as the
Duke of Norfolk. I always liked the tale of how the latter came to dine
with Sir Thomas in Chelsea and “fortuned to find him at the church in
choir with a surplice on his back singing, and as they went home
together arm in arm, the duke said, ‘God’s Body, God’s Body, my Lord
Chancellor, a parish clerk--a parish clerk! You dishonour the King and
his office!’ And Sir Thomas replied mildly that he did not think the
duke’s master and his would be offended with him for serving God his
Master or thereby count his office dishonoured.”
I love Chelsea Old Church better than any other London church. It has
nothing of the heavy solidity that smacks of broadcloth and thick gold
watch-chains. The congregation on a summer Sunday evening might be met
with in any village in England. The very altar has no pomp of
embroidered frontal and massive ornaments; it looks almost like a
Jacobean dining-room with its simple oaken table and dignified chairs on
either side.
The church is filled with enchanting old treasures--chained Bibles and
old monuments to the great dead who worshipped there, but I cannot find
it in my heart to catalogue them for you as if it were a museum. Enter
those dim walls and see for yourself, and you will love it as did that
lover of England from across the sea whose epitaph is not the least
among the beautiful things of Chelsea Old Church:
In memory of Henry James, Novelist
Born in New York, 1843. Died in Chelsea, 1916
Lover and interpreter of the fine
amenities of brave decisions and generous
loyalties: resident of this parish, who
renounced a cherished citizenship to give his
allegiance to England in the first
year of the Great War.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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