It compares very badly with the water gate in Buckingham Street, which
was designed by Inigo Jones in 1625, and built by Nicholas Stone the
master mason, who carved one of the lions on its frontage. The London
climate has blurred the outline of the arms of the Villiers family on
the south side, and the motto “Fidei Coticula Crux” on the north, and
the raising of the Embankment now prevents the waters of the Thames from
swirling round the old stone steps. No monarch had passed through the
water gate since the days of Charles II. until Queen Alexandra came to
open the new building in Buckingham Street in 1908. Its glory has
departed, but there it stands, useless, unnoticed and forgotten, yet how
beautiful!
THE ADELPHI
“I like the spirit of this great London which I feel
around me.”
C. BRONTË.
Retracing your steps up Buckingham Street, turn to the right along Duke
Street and John Street, and you will find yourself in the Adelphi, that
oasis of calm quiet so near the roar of the bustling Strand, where
famous authors of the present day like to pitch their luxurious tents.
Note the steep hill up which you climb. This is the roof of the arches
which the brothers Adam built over the site of old Durham House in order
that they might erect their elegant houses on a level with the Strand.
You can still wander in these vaults, if you are lucky enough to find
an open gate; they are curious, and were once a fine rendezvous for evil
characters.
The Duke of Buckingham’s names are not the only ones to be perpetuated
here. The architects, Robert, John, James and William Adam, all had
streets named after them, and they called the whole quarter the Adelphi
because they were brothers.
William Street has lately been rechristened Durham House Street, to
remind us that the Adelphi was built on the site of Durham House, where
Lady Jane Grey was born.
Probably the Adelphi will have to go some day, when a proper bridge for
Charing Cross is built across the river here, but lovers of this little
bit of unspoiled Georgian London will miss its old-world charm and
dignity.
ST. CLEMENT DANES
“Blith be thy chirches, wele sownyng be thy bellis.”
DUNBAR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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