Lamb was a true child of the Temple as he was born there. It may be
heresy, but I have always wished he had not called it “the most elegant
spot in the metropolis”; he loved it more than that, as all readers of
_The Old Benchers of the Inner Temple_ know well.
No one leaves the Temple without pausing in Fountain Court, where Ruth
Pinch used to meet Tom. It is by far the most charming of all the courts
of the Temple. “I lived in Fountain Court for ten years,” wrote Arthur
Symons, “and I thought then and I think still, that it is the most
beautiful place in London.”
CHAPTER IV
ROUND ABOUT THE TOWER
“I do not like the Tower, of any place.”--_Richard III._
Having amused myself many times in Paris by hunting up the pieces of the
old wall that Philippe Auguste built before he departed to the Holy Land
on one of his Crusades, I set out one day to see how much remains of the
wall the Romans built round London.
I discovered some bits of it, but I discovered a great many other things
in the process.
There is very little left of the city that the old Romans called Augusta
and the older Britons Llyn-Din--that some say means “the Lake Fort” and
some “The Hill by the Pool.” In the Guildhall and London museums there
are statues and vases and ornaments and mosaic pavements belonging to
those times, but in the city streets there are hardly any traces to-day
of the Roman occupation. Watling Street, a piece of Roman road that
still bears an Anglo-Saxon name, runs citywards from the back of St.
Paul’s, but that may better be reached from Cheapside. Most of the Roman
wall that remains is now below ground level. The best places to see what
is visible are in St. Olave’s, Hart Street; at Trinity Place, Tower
Hill; at Barber’s bonded warehouses in Cooper’s Row; and at The Roman
Wall House at No. 1, Crutched Friars, a new building whose plans were
altered by the Sadlers’ Company so as to preserve a good specimen of the
old wall in one of the basement rooms.
I began my search for Roman remains in Strand Lane, which lies next door
to the Strand station on the Holborn tube, and can be reached either by
bus along the Strand or by District train to the Temple, whence you go
uphill up Arundel Street and, turning to your left along the Strand,
find it after two or three minutes’ walk. Half-way down the little
winding passage that once led to the waterside there is on the left a
dingy sign, “The Old Roman Bath.”
The English reputation for liking cold baths must have been a legacy
from the Romans. Time was when the venerable cold spring bath was used
daily. David Copperfield had many a cold plunge in it when he was living
in Peter the Great’s house at the lower end of Buckingham Street. But
now it is only open from 11 to 12 on Saturday mornings to the very
occasional visitor who turns aside to look at this 2,000-year-old relic
of the London of the past.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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