Now take the train again, or another 13 bus, and go on to the Monument,
where King William IV. stands on the very spot where Falstaff and Prince
Hal made merry at the “Boar’s Head,” Eastcheap. Going down by the
beautiful column which Sir Christopher Wren built to commemorate the
Great Fire, hard by where it started in Pudding Lane, turn to your left
in Lower Thames Street opposite the church of St. Magnus, and walk along
this unattractive causeway till you come to the Coal Exchange with its
Corinthian porch. You will find the porter through a door up the
side-street of St. Mary-at-Hill. Do not go on Monday, Wednesday or
Friday afternoons, for those are marketdays or whatever the correct term
is on Coal Exchanges, and, as that most agreeable porter explained to
me: “We found it didn’t do, Ma’am; for when the genelmen on the Exchange
see me taking a lady or genelman or it might be a party down below into
the cellar, they naturally says to me ‘What for?’ And when I say ‘Roman
bath,’ they say ‘Roman bath, Jones! Did you say Roman bath? You don’t
mean to say there’s a Roman bath below and me here forty years and never
know it!’ And down they goes with all their friends, all equally
surprised, and business gets neglected. That’s how it is, Ma’am.”
Business in the coal trade has been too much neglected for anyone to
wish to hinder it further, so go on a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday
afternoon. It is quite worth the exertion, for this hot-air or sweating
chamber, with its fire-blackened bricks, forming part of an elaborate
system of baths, is even more interesting than the Roman bath in the
Strand.
The Coal Exchange, with its curious rotunda floor of inlaid wood, was
only built in the middle of the nineteenth century, but it has two more
unexpected links with the past. I am indebted to Messrs. Thornbury and
Walford for pointing out that the black oak used in the woodwork is part
of a tree, four or five centuries old, that was discovered in the River
Tyne, and the blade of a dagger in the shield of the City arms is made
of wood from a mulberry tree that Peter the Great planted when he worked
as a shipwright in Deptford Harbour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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