Pepys and his pretty wife are both buried in their parish church of St.
Olave’s. Mrs. Pepys died when she was only twenty-nine, and though he
had teased the jealousy of “my wife, poor wretch,” Pepys ordered her
bust to be carved, not in the usual profile, but with the lovely head
turned so that he could see
[Illustration: THE TOWER OF LONDON. BYWARD TOWER]
it from where he sat in his gallery pew on the other side of the church.
There are other interesting things to be seen at St. Olave’s: the
doorway to the old churchyard that Dickens-lovers will recognise from
his description in the _Uncommercial Traveller_, the carved pulpit and
quaint vestry and several fine old monuments, and, as I mentioned
before, part of the old Roman wall.
If you have no passion for discovering bits of ancient walls, there are
other more beautiful things near the bottom of Seething Lane. One of
them is very new, so new that when I saw it all the scaffolding had not
been removed from the buildings at its base--I mean the great tower of
the Port of London Authority. I hear that Sir Joseph E. Broodbank has
just written a fascinating _History of the Port of London_, that will
waken everyone who has three guineas to spare to the interest of
London’s immense docks and the organisation that has power over seventy
miles of the Thames. The beautiful tower of the new buildings, with its
fine groups of statuary, is worth a special pilgrimage to see. It is not
very far from Trinity House, that unique institution that, as Mr.
Cunningham says, has for its object “the increase and encouragement of
navigation, the regulation of lighthouses and sea marks, and the general
management of matters not immediately connected with the Admiralty.”
The Guild of Trinity House was founded in 1529 by Sir Thomas Spert,
Henry VIII.’s Controller of the Navy and commander of the magnificent
four-master, the _Harry Grace de Dieu_, which took the King to Calais on
his way to the Field of the Cloth of Gold. You can see exactly what it
looked like in the picture of Henry VIII.’s embarkation at Dover that
hangs in Hampton Court Palace.
One of the delusions I have had when hastening through the streets of
London filled with excitement at the thought of seeing some ancient
place associated with more colourful days than our own, was caused by
Mr. Wagner’s enticing account of the Crooked Billet in his fascinating
book on old London inns.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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