But “Safety first” was a motto with King Edward, he wanted no more
wooden scaffoldings. A stone platform was built, just in front of the
old church of St. Mary-le-Bow (making it extremely dark on the street
side), from which he and his court could view the tournaments with minds
at peace; for centuries this was the regular royal stand, whenever there
was a procession or other fine doings in the City. Look at Bow Church,
that glory of Cheapside, the work of Sir Christopher Wren, and, in the
stone gallery running round the graceful steeple, you will see how, ever
mindful of tradition, he commemorated this fact when he built his new
tower to flank the pavement adjoining the site of the old grand-stand.
When I last went into Bow Church I chatted with the lady who was
engaged in scrubbing the floor, and she told me the curious fact that in
this English church in an English city, with its memories stretching
through the ages (for it is built on the site of a much older one and
you may still see the fine old Norman crypt), the Russians in London
were then assembling, Sunday by Sunday, for a service in their own
ritual, St. Mary’s congregation amiably going to another church near by.
The City Churches that were missed so sorely, after the Great Fire, by
the merchants, tradesmen, shopkeepers, apprentices, with their families,
maids and servants, who lived all round about them and dutifully
worshipped there, now stand empty and neglected. Here and there, as in
the tiny fourteenth-century church of St. Ethelburga’s in Bishopsgate
Street, the magnet of eloquent wisdom and sincerity draws men and women
from all over London to worship, so that the seats are never empty, but
in the majority of the City churches, a perfunctory service connotes a
perfunctory congregation of caretakers and their wives, inhabitants of a
quarter that is only populated in the working week-day hours. The best
time to see any of the City churches is at the lunch hour, when they are
sure to be open. In many of them short musical services are then held. I
know few odder sensations than to walk in the City on a Sunday morning
and hear all the sweet bells of the fifty-odd churches calling to prayer
in the silence of the solitary streets. Practical people would pull the
half of them down and devote the money from the sale of their sites to
other much-needed religious purposes. But, even if these little churches
no longer serve their original object, they are still shrines of the
past, each one with some special memory, some special charm, and typical
all together of a great phase of English architecture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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