'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
History
'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
found his own horse for him, and altogether we got into camp
in very good time, but half the people came in late with all sorts of
difficulties. Camp conveyances are very good for ten or twelve miles,
but always fail on a long march; the bearers get tired and out of sorts.
We pass Mrs. ----, your likeness, every morning, with her bearers guarded
by two sepoys, because they will put down the tonjaun and run away.
Merahoon, Monday.
It was lucky we had our halt at Futtehpore-Sickrey. Except Delhi, it is
the most interesting place we have seen, and there is more to sketch,
and in these hurried journeys I do not think it any sin to sketch on
Sunday. There is a tomb of marble here, carved like lace--it would make
such a splendid dairy for Windsor Castle, it looks so cool and so
royal--and there is a beautiful gateway, the arch of which is ninety
feet high; and then there are some remains of the Emperor Akbar, which
give a good idea of the magnificent fellow he was. The throne in which
he sat to hear petitions stands in the centre of a hall, with a cross of
stone balconies abutting from it, to four open arches. His ministers
were placed at each end of that cross, their seats looking out on the
courts below, so any grievance that was stated _to_ them, or _against_
them, they were obliged to announce at the full extent of their voices,
else the emperor could not hear them, and the petitioner below was made
certain that his grievance was rightly stated. This throne, &c., is most
beautifully carved, as you will see whenever I send my sketch books
home. There is also a lovely carved room, all over European devices,
supposed to have been built by the directions of a favourite wife, whom
he imported from Constantinople. In the centre of the court, a
_pucheesee_ board (pucheesee is a sort of chess) is laid out in squares
of marble, and there is a raised seat on which Akbar sat and played the
games; the _pieces_ were all female slaves splendidly dressed, and
whoever won carried off the sixteen ladies.
Agra, Wednesday, Dec. 18.
We came here yesterday and went off the same afternoon to see the Taj,
which is quite as beautiful, even more so, than we had expected after
all we have heard, and as we have never heard of anything else, that
just shows how entirely perfect it must be. You must have heard and read
enough about it, so I spare you any more, but it really repays a great
deal of the trouble of the journey. We passed the day in the tents, as
they were more convenient for G.'s levée, and in the afternoon came on
to this delightful house, which was Sir Charles Metcalfe's and is now
Mr. H.'s, who has good-naturedly entrenched himself in one wing and
settled us in the rest. It is beautifully furnished, and so clean and
quiet. I really love it--it is so pleasant not to feel dusty.
Friday, Dec. 20.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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