'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
History
'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
We went yesterday to see Secundra, where Akbar is buried, and his tomb
of beautiful white marble is up four stories of grotesque buildings,
well worth seeing; so much so that, as G. had a durbar to-night and
could not go out, F. and I went back alone, and had rather a rest, in
sketching there, for two hours, but it is impossible to make anything of
these elaborate Mogul buildings, they are all lines and domes, and
uncommonly trying to the patience. We are attempting to buy Agra marbles
and curiosities, but somehow cannot find many, and those we ordered
before we came down are not half done, but they will be very pretty. I
have got two little tombs, facsimiles of Shah Jehan's and his wife's,
with all the same little patterns inlaid. Valuable--but I wish they were
not quite so dear. We were at home on Thursday night--there seem to be a
great many people at Agra. Mrs. H., who was a Miss A., is very pretty
and nice. We stay here till the 1st, and this fortnight of rest from
tents is a great comfort. My small health is uncommonly good just now.
CHAPTER XLIX.
Agra, Sunday, December 29, 1839.
I have let a week pass by this time, partly because, since we have been
here, we have given a ball and four large dinners, seen a great many
sights, had a ball given to us and a déjeûner at the Taj, and also that
an awful change has taken place in our plans, one that it makes me sick
to think of. We are going to stay here for the next ten months: ----, to
whom G. offered the Lieutenant-Governorship, and who knew all his plans,
and who had acuteness enough to carry them on, began by accepting, and
ended by declining in consequence of 'domestic calamities which he was
unable to explain.' They say that Mrs. ---- is gone out of her mind. I
really think it must have been at the notion of coming here. It is too
late in the year to make any new arrangements, and there is so much of
importance likely to occur in the Punjâb where old Runjeet is a sad
loss, and so much to watch over in Affghanistan, that G. decided on
staying himself. Such a shock and such trouble! We have at least three
houses to build here for the European servants, the baboos, &c., and a
house to repair for the aides-de-camp. Agra is avowedly the hottest
place in India, and everybody says this is the hottest house in Agra, so
there is a whole army of engineers now beginning to see what can be done
to build up verandahs, and to make ventilators, and to pretend to make
the hot winds bearable. There are in India two regular parties, one
preferring Bengal with the hot days and the damp and the sea-breeze
blowing at night, and the other standing up for their hot winds, twenty
degrees hotter, but dry. I have never varied in thinking the account of
them terrific. From the end of March to the middle of June, they blow
unceasingly, night and day. Nobody stirs out, and all night the tatties
are kept wet, and thermantidotes (great _winnowing_ machines) are kept
turning to make a little cool air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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