'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of IndiaEden, Emily
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'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India
Eden, Emily
Eden, Emily, 1797-1869 -- Correspondence; India -- Description and travel
We have had the Sikh deputation here for nearly a week. The durbar was
put off from Saturday, as we had on Saturday and Sunday two regular hill
rainy days, an even down-pour, that was a great trial to the flat mud
roofs, and a thick mist quite up to the windows. It is the sort of thing
that lasts for two months during the rains, but it has no business to
come misting into our houses now. However, the clearing up on Sunday was
worth seeing. The hills were so beautiful and purple, and such masses of
white clouds sailing along the valleys. The Sikh deputation came on
Monday. There are six principal people, one of them a young cousin of
Runjeet Singh's, and another a fakeer who is Runjeet's chief confidant
and adviser, and a clever man. He is dressed outwardly as a fakeer ought
to be, in coarse brown cloth; but if that opens a little, there is
underneath a gold dress embroidered in seed pearl. Captain M. and I
arranged the rooms according to our own fancy, and we made out a much
better-looking durbar than when ---- takes our house in hand, and
desecrates it with ugly white cloth, to ensure the natives taking off
their shoes. We covered the rooms with scarlet linen, which looked very
handsome, and equally ensured that etiquette, and saved the appearance
of a drying-ground. It is not like a common durbar for tributaries, who
are dismissed in five minutes, but this lasted an hour. G., in a gilt
chair, in the centre, the six Sikh chiefs and Mr. B. at the right hand,
and all the envoys, forty of them, in full dress and solemn silence, in
a circle all round the room, and in the folding-doors between the two
rooms a beautiful group of twelve Sikhs, who had no claim to chairs, but
sat on the floor. And before this circle G. has to talk and to listen to
the most flowery nonsense imaginable, to hear it translated and
retranslated, and to vary it to each individual. It took a quarter of an
hour to satisfy him about the maharajah's health, and to ascertain that
the roses had bloomed in the garden of friendship, and the nightingales
had sung in the bowers of affection sweeter than ever, since the two
powers had approached each other. Then he hoped that the deputation had
not suffered from the rain; and they said that the canopy of friendship
had interposed such a thick cloud that their tents had remained quite
dry, which was touching, only it did so happen that the tents were so
entirely soaked through that Runjeet Singh had been obliged to hire the
only empty house in Simla for them. Their dresses were beautiful,
particularly the _squatting_ group in the centre, and it is a great pity
there was no painter here.
Wednesday, May 9.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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