In the gallery devoted to Uruguayan painters there is at least one
picture that is remarkable for its power and realism, the work of a
famous modern artist, representing a scene in the great plague
visitation that the capital suffered. It is a little curious that in
the rooms where hang the specimens of European art the biblical
paintings of some of the old Italian masters should be hung side by
side with modern productions of the lightest and most Gallic tendency;
but it is quite possible that this may have been done with intention
in support of the propaganda against the influence of Church and
religion that has now become so marked throughout South America. In
any case, the custom is one that does not obtain in Montevideo alone.
The taxidermic portion of the museum is exceedingly well contrived,
and the entire institution, with its competent staff, under the
direction of Professor José Arechavaleta, is worthy of all praise.
With social institutions of all kinds Montevideo is amply provided.
The theatres are well constructed, well patronised, and frequently
visited by some of the most efficient companies in existence. It is
true that, owing to the difference in the size of the two towns,
Montevideo usually obtains the tail-end of a visit the most part of
which has been spent in Buenos Aires. But such matters of precedence
do not in the least affect the merits of the various performances.
Both actors and musicians here, moreover, have to deal with an
audience that is at least as critical as any that its larger neighbour
can provide.
One of the evidences of Montevideo's modernity is to be found in its
afternoon-tea establishments. Unfortunately, the name of the principal
one of these places has escaped me, so that it must receive its meed
of praise in an anonymous fashion. It is certainly one of the
daintiest specimens of its kind that can be conceived both as regards
decoration and the objects of light sustenance that justify its
existence. As a teashop it is a jewel with an appropriate pendant--a
tiny coal-black negro boy official at the door, whose gorgeous
full-dress porter's uniform renders him a much-admired toy of
humanity.
The chief and most imposing of the capital's clubs is the Club Uruguay
that looks out upon the Plaza Matriz, the main square. The premises
here are spacious and imposing, and the club is quite of the first
order. The membership is confined almost entirely to the Uruguayans of
the better classes, although it includes a small number of resident
foreigners. The English Club is situated on the opposite side of the
same square, and is an extremely cosy and well-managed institution
that sustains to the full all the traditions of the English clubs
abroad.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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