Undoubtedly the most salient feature of Colón is the eucalyptus.
Indeed, the place primarily consists of mile upon mile of these
stately avenues, fringed by blue gums of an immense size. Bordering
these magnificent highways, that cross each other at right angles, are
country houses here and there that are reproductions of those in the
suburbs of Montevideo. In between the avenues, again, are clumps and
small forests of eucalyptus, whose tops soar high up in tremendously
lofty waves, that enclose vineyards, peach-orchards, and olive-tree
plantations.
Here and there are lanes walled in by mounting hedges of honeysuckle
and rose, while many of the private grounds are guarded by the
impassable lines of aloe. Add to this basis all the other trees,
shrubs, and flowers that have already been passed on the outward
journey, and you have the main attributes of Colón.
[Illustration: EUCALYPTUS AVENUE: COLÓN.
To face p. 166.]
Since the topic of the inner man appeals at least as much to the
Uruguayan as to any other mortal, there are some very pleasant
restaurants set in the midst of this land of eucalyptus. Perhaps the
best and prettiest of these is one known by the very English name of
the Tea Garden Restaurant. One of the chief peculiarities of the place
is that tea is actually partaken of there from time to time, as the
modern Oriental is beginning to accord this cosmopolitan beverage a
recognised place by the side of coffee and his own native Yerba Maté.
At the Tea Garden Restaurant it is possible to lunch by the side of a
lake, with ripening grape-bunches above to throw their reflections in
the soup, and with the falling petals of orange-blossom floating
daintily past the steaming cutlets, while the music of the ducks
blends admirably with the clatter of the table weapons. With really
good cooking and attentive service added to these side attractions,
what more could one want!
But the proprietors of the restaurant are nothing if not enterprising.
They give the wayfarer something even beyond an excellent meal. At the
end of the repast each guest is presented with a ticket that entitles
him to a free cab-ride to the tramway terminus. The idea is admirable.
Nothing is wanting but the cabs! At all events, when I had concluded
lunch there the surface of the fine avenue was innocent of any
vehicle, and continued so until the walk to the car was accomplished.
But the courtesy of the offer had been effectual, and a certain sense
of obligation remained.
The bathing-places of Poçitos and Ramirez are akin in many respects to
these inland resorts. By the side of the sea here are fewer blossoms
and rather smaller eucalyptus groves, but a greater number of open-air
restaurants and one or two quite imposing hotels. Indeed, Ramirez, the
nearer of the two, is endowed with a really fine casino, that faces
the shoreward end of the pier, and that has by its side the spacious
and well-timbered public park.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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