Poçitos occupies the next bay, and is notable for its lengthy
esplanade and for the very pleasant houses that give upon the
semicircular sweep. This bay, moreover, is the first that has, so to
speak, turned its back upon the river and has faced the open ocean.
As a token, the waters are tinged with a definite blue, and the air
holds a genuine sting of salt that rapidly dies away when passing
up-stream away from here. To the Buenos Airen, who enthusiastically
patronises the place, Poçitos is delightful, if for no other reason
than the sense of contrast to his own surroundings that it affords
him. Not that he has any reason to grumble at the river frontier of
the rich alluvial soil, from out of which his fortunes have been
built. But here, in place of the soft, stoneless mud, is bright sand,
and genuine rocks, piled liberally all over the shore, that shelter
crabs, and pools that hold fish of the varieties that refuse to
breathe in any other but guaranteed salt water. So it is that the
summer season sees the long rows of tents and bathing machines crowded
and overflowing with the Uruguayans and the host of visitors from
across the river.
Both Ramirez and Poçitos are within the range of the ubiquitous
tramcar. But this very efficient service, not content with its
excursion of half a dozen miles and more on the ocean side of
Montevideo, runs in the opposite direction completely round the port
bay, and performs the yet more important journey to Villa del Cerro,
the small town that lies at the foot of the hill that is so closely
associated with Montevideo and its affairs. A far shorter route to
this latter place, however, is by the busy little steam ferry that
puffs straight across the bay, and that starts faithfully at every
hour, as promised by the timetable, although, if that hour coincides
with the one specified, the event may be accepted as a fortunate
accident.
Its most patriotic inhabitant could not claim loveliness for Villa del
Cerro. The existence of the spot is mainly due to the presence of some
neighbouring _saladeros_, or meat-curing factories, and thus the
small town presents the aspects of the more humble industrial centres.
There are two or three regular streets, it is true, that contain a few
houses with some faint pretensions to importance. Upon the balconies
of these the local señoritas are wont to gather of an evening. They
are obviously a little starved in such matters as romance, and a
little fearful lest their eye language should lose its eloquence
through too long a disuse. Thus the advent of any passing stranger
whatever suffices to cause a certain flutter and excitement in the
balconies above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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