In the neighbourhood of these licensed occupiers of the pastures are
others whose existence is more precarious. These are hares who race
away at the advent of a train, and iguanas whose long tails stream
behind them as they depart in a flurry. As for the ostriches, they
have obviously come to the conclusion that their life is too short and
their neck too long for any excitement of the kind. They are plainly
bored by the advent of this noisy invention of man, and regard it
languidly from the height of the two long legs that repose in a
supercilious attitude.
On through the undulating Campo, where the rain pools lie like dew
ponds upon an English South Down, and where the banks of the
intermittent streams of the cañadas thread in and out of the green
grass for all the world like the bodies of black snakes. A company of
deer are feeding peacefully in the distance, intermingled with the
bulky members of a herd of cattle with whom the wild creatures have
condescended to associate for the time being.
The train has pulled up at Cardoso now, the centre of a district that
is considerably more populous than the majority. The place was once
the site of a German colony, and indeed the sole reasons why it does
not remain so to this day must be laid at the doors of climate,
surroundings, intermarriage, and the influence of all three. As it is,
chastened by the all-powerful atmosphere of the spot, Teutonic
features, customs, and language have already become modified almost to
the extinction of the original type.
The phenomenon affords only one more of the innumerable instances of
the tremendous power of absorption that is latent in the South
American continent. In contrast to the mutability of all things
intrinsically human, the industry of the community remains the same as
when the first colonists, strangers and foreigners, introduced it to
the spot. Cheese-making is still the staple trade of Cardoso, and the
district is not a little famed for the art.
This particular neighbourhood, however, is to be noted for something
of more enduring importance than cheese. It is here, indeed, that the
soil of the land, after many tentative swellings, each more ambitious
than the last, takes upon itself to change its outline in a determined
and conclusive fashion. The universal, gentle swell of the undulations
has given way to steeper walls of green surmounted by curiously level,
flat surfaces. Thus the face of the Campo is now dotted, so far as the
eye can reach, with a collection of table-lands, each separate and
differing slightly from the rest in the details of its pattern, but
each marvellously distinct and clearly cut. The feature is
characteristic of central northern Uruguay, and is continued well
beyond the frontier into Brazil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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