Obeying the sociable instinct that so frequently links the railway
line with the highway in these parts of the world, the main road runs
close alongside the locomotive track. Where it goes the dark, rich
soil gleams moistly in every dip, and each cup in the land holds its
pool, for heavy rains have preceded the brilliant sunshine of the day.
For many leagues the broad surface of the way has been broken by
nothing beyond the inevitable attributes of such thoroughfares--the
occasional pathetic heap that stands for the dead body of a horse or
cow, or the bleaching framework of bones that gleam out sharply after
the vultures' and caranchos' feast. But here at length comes a body of
riders, half a dozen Gauchos, enveloped in ponchos of various
patterns, who are pricking onwards at the easy canter that renders the
conquest of any space whatever a question of mere time.
Thudding over the hill-tops, splashing through the mud-holes below,
the progress of the grim, silent centaurs is as inevitable and
certain as the presence of the knives at their belts or the maté-bowl
slung by the saddles. Then the train has sped ahead, dragging after it
a world of its own as remote from the atmosphere that surrounds the
six diminishing horsemen as is the clank of the engine from the light
jingling of the silvered bridles.
The crop of stone upon the land has become more prolific. The rock has
come to adorn the sides of the table-lands more especially, breaking
out with precision at the spot where each slope of the green eminences
starts out abruptly from the level, after which it continues,
unbroken, to the summit. The material, however, has been made to serve
for purposes of utility, and here and there are corrals and walls of
loosely piled stones, a novel sight to one who is working his way
upwards from the south.
The scarce ranchos, however, continue on much the same pattern that
has characterised them throughout the journey. The crudeness of many
of these is scarcely to be excelled in any part of the world. To
imagine an edifice composed of the lids and sides of kerosene tins,
roofed and finished off at the odd corners by straggling tufts of
reed, is to picture the abode of by no means the most humble settler.
One or two are embellished, it is true, by a rough trellis work from
which the vine-leaves hang thickly, while others are decorated by
nothing beyond a variety of multi-coloured garments that hang out in
the sunshine to dry. Clustered together, the modest homesteads would
appear sordid and mean. As it is, the open solitudes of which each
stands as the human centre lend it a certain dignity that is not in
the least concerned with the pattern of the structure itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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