Indeed, the evidence of variety is everywhere. Even the conventional
aspect of the train itself and of its passengers has undergone no
little alteration since the start. As it pulled out from Montevideo
the train was undoubtedly a model of its kind that took no little
pride in its well-ordered level line of day coaches, and sleeping and
restaurant cars.
Once well out into the country, however, the democratic influence of
the land has overcome its patrician make-up. A passenger coach or two
has dropped away at one station; some trucks and goods-vans have been
added at another, until its appearance has become as heterogeneous as
that of a Uruguayan volunteer soldier in a revolution. In fact, the
farther from the capital it gets and the nearer to its destination,
the more _négligé_ and doubtless practical does its appearance
become. Like to a man who starts out for a walk on a hot summer's day,
it is metaphorically trudging along bareheaded, with its coat slung
over its shoulder.
In the case of the passengers the same may be said without the apology
of metaphor. It is in the occupants of the first-class coaches that
the transformation is most evident. Many of the men remain in at least
portions of the same clothes of metropolitan cut that served them in
Montevideo. But ponchos have now been brought out and donned to hide
what lies beneath--ponchos of fine texture, these, that stand quite
apart from the meaner drapings of the _peon_, but nevertheless
essentially national and of the land.
As for the women, the few who have remained constant to the train
since the beginning of the journey remain in much the same trim as
when they first entered the carriage. The persistence may be due to
the vanity that is alleged by man to be inherent in woman, or merely
to the laudable desire of giving the country cousin an object-lesson
in costume.
It must be admitted that the garments of these latter tend to comfort
somewhat at the expense of appearances. The loosest of blouses, wraps,
and skirts are wont to make up a figure in which a waist may at times
be suspected, and even occasionally hoped for, but is never seen.
Decidedly the procedure savours of rigid honesty on the part of the
country cousin. For frankly to promise nothing is surely more
admirable than the transient advertisement achieved by the manufacture
of merely temporary space in the position rightfully sought for by
superfluous material.
Many of these country ladies with the honest and unaccentuated figures
are accompanied by their maids, these latter for the most part
negresses. The bond between mistress and maid is very close here.
Indeed, in Northern Uruguay such episodes as a "month's warning," a
demand for an extra "night out," the right to "followers," and all
other similar bones of contention that arise in more populous centres
between employer and employed are unknown.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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