The train has halted at a couple of small "Camp" stations, and has
puffed onwards again, leaving the respective brick buildings, with
their scatter of outhouses, to sink back into the lethargy that the
passenger train disturbs but for a few minutes every other day. In the
neighbourhood of Achar, the latter of these halts, the surrounding
country has broken out into an exceptional blaze of flower. The purple
of the flor morala stains hillsides entire; the scarlet verbena glows
in spreading patches that from a distance might well be mistaken for
poppy-fields, while all about are other flower carpets of yellow,
blue, and white.
The wealth of blossom continues unbroken as far as Piedra Sola, or
Solitary Stone--a spot aptly named from a curious square block of rock
that reposes upon the top of a mound in so monumental a fashion that
it is difficult to believe that it is the work of Nature rather than
of human beings--and beyond it, adorning a country that grows ever
bolder until Tambores is reached.
All the attributes in these primitive parts savour of Nature and of
its simplicity. The very nomenclature is affected by this influence.
Thus no historical significance is to be looked for in the name of
Tambores--drums. The origin of the word lies in the surrounding
table-lands that have grown loftier and more accentuated here than
their brethren to the south, and whose shape resembles not a little
the instruments of war.
Tambores is a place of comparative importance. It is true that no
architectural beauties are to be looked for at the spot, since the
quaint collection of edifices that are scattered in the neighbourhood
of the station are almost without exception the tin and reed
structures common to the district. Such rare exceptions as exist,
moreover, hold out merely minor claims to aristocracy in the shape of
an entire sheet or two of corrugated iron. Yet these modest precincts
guard a really important cattle and wool centre, and even now many
hundreds of bales are lying in readiness in their wagons, while cattle
stamp impatiently in the trucks that will bear them southwards to
Montevideo.
Passing to and fro by the honeysuckle hedge that flanks the platform
is a motley collection of folk. The majority of the men are in
sad-coloured ponchos, and in _bombachos_ that frequent staining has
imbued with an earthy hue. In addition to the railway officials,
beshawled women, children, dogs, and hens complete the gathering. A
feature that is especially noticeable here is the number of dusky
complexions that have come to assert themselves in the midst of the
fresh-coloured Uruguayan faces. Quite distinct from the swarthiness of
the Indian, the tint here savours undoubtedly of the African. It
becomes, moreover, steadily more marked as the Brazilian frontier is
approached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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