Perhaps the most striking of all in the neighbourhood is the tall
figure of one who has detached himself from a group of friends, and is
walking toward where a line of tethered horses is waiting. Like the
other who has been distributing alms to the beggar, he is clad from
head to foot in black. Nevertheless, the aspects of the two are as
different as night and day. The one is a walker of the streets, this
latter a true lord of the Campo. Unmistakably a landed proprietor of
no little consideration, his costume affects the Gaucho to a marked
degree. With scarf wound negligently round his neck, loose jacket, and
broad bombachos, the spotless black of the finest material is finished
off by the light boots of the man whose life is spent in the saddle.
In his hand the _rebenque_--the inevitable riding-whip--glistens with
its silver carving, a work of art.
None could deny the coquetry of his appearance; but this is the stern
coquetry of the warrior and hunter, as a glance at his grave, rather
hawklike features will confirm. A strikingly handsome figure of a
man, he stalks with assured tread, raising his sombrero with a simple
gesture to acquaintances, until he reaches the spot where the line of
horses are tethered. His mount is a magnificent bay, whose leathers
and bridle are silvered as thickly as they may be and yet remain
flexible, while the saddle and stirrups are heavily coated with the
same material. He has swung himself into the saddle now, and is riding
away, forcing his horse with consummate ease into a series of curvets
and caracoles that evoke admiration even from the numerous
professional centaurs in the crowd. But the rider never once looks
back as he swings away in the shade of the trees. The romantic figure
is either unconscious of admiration or too accustomed to the tribute
to be concerned. In any case, he is a product of the land, a veritable
paladin.
To the north of Tacuarembo are grass hills overshadowed by the
inevitable tall table-lands. Where the rock juts out from the side of
these the fronds of many varieties of fern sprout thickly, and by
their sides are clumps of evening primrose, everlasting pea, and a
wealth of far more brilliant blossoms of the tropical order. In the
hollows the vegetation of the wooded streams grows ever more
luxurious, and here the flowers star the banks in the wildest riot of
profusion.
Seeing that it is springtime, all this is as it should be. But there
cannot be many parts of the world whose inhabitants are permitted such
a striking reminder of the season as is the case just here. In the
neighbourhood of one of these enchanting streams is a very humble mud
hut. Its dwellers are pure Africans, and they are just without,
enjoying a sun-bath with all the zest of the race.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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