But the interest of this particular spot is not concerned with them at
all; it is centred upon the modest homestead itself. The mud walls
have responded in an amazing fashion to the call of the year. Not
content with a background of lichen and moss, they have flung out
lengthy streamers of fern, from amidst which peer shyly the blossoms
of various plants. Obedient to the impulse of spring, each of the four
sides has garbed itself thus. In less exuberant parts the effect would
be strained for with toil and achieved with triumph. But here the
black inhabitants regard their eloquent house as a matter of course.
Just after leaving the small station of Bañada de Rocha is a tunnel.
This fact may appear totally unworthy of mention--anywhere else but
within the countries bordering on the River Plate. Here a tunnel is an
object to be paused at, and to be inspected with not a little
curiosity. Although it is possible that some minor burrowings may
exist, to the best of my belief the three republics of Argentina,
Uruguay, and Paraguay can count no more than two regular tunnels
between them. The wonderful shaft bored through the heart of the Andes
is one--the other is before us here at Bañada de Rocha. As the only
specimen of its kind in Uruguay, therefore, it is not without
distinction, and is worthy of at least a passing remark.
After passing through the tunnel the line drops down into a fairly
wide plain, hemmed in by numerous low ranges of the inevitable
flat-topped hills, while a few elevations of the same curious nature
dot the country in the nearer neighbourhood of the track. In a short
while, however, the more broken country has surged up all about once
again, bearing upon its surface quaint rocky projections, some shaped
exactly as tables, others in the form of sugar-loaves, while yet
others resemble giant mushrooms sprouting cumbrously from the soil.
Ere reaching the station of Paso del Cerro a great grove of
carolina-trees rises majestically, and in the grateful shadow of the
branches a long line of bullock-wagons, each vehicle loaded with the
wool for which the region is noted, goes winding its way towards the
station in the stolid fashion of such processions. Paso del Cerro is
delightfully situated, facing as it does a range of hills whose
surface is dotted with ranches that appear picturesque enough in the
distance. Beyond this point lofty cliffs of rock soar aloft, pressing
near to the line. In the nooks and crannies of the great walls are
dwarf trees of fantastic shapes that make pleasant breaks here and
there in the bare rock of the surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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