The sand-dunes of which a glimpse has been obtained at Piriapolis are
characteristic of almost the entire length of the Uruguayan coast that
gives upon the Atlantic Ocean. There are many spots along this open
shore that are well worthy of a visit. Not the least of these is
Piriapolis--a place that is in the act of making a very bold bid for
popularity as a pleasure resort. Piriapolis is a spot of no little
interest. Situated a little to the west of Maldonado on the southern
coast that faces the open Atlantic, the place is a budding town, and
is noteworthy as much for what it promises in the future as for its
present aspects, interesting enough though they are. Piriapolis is
remarkable in being a one-man place--by which no connection is implied
with the one-horse epithet of tradition--in that it has emanated from
the mind and pocket of a prominent Uruguayan, Señor Francisco Piria.
Piriapolis lies to the coastward side of the railway line that is
being prolonged in the direction of Maldonado, and, as matters at
present stand, it is necessary to board a construction train, and to
proceed soberly along the unballasted track to the point where the
coach, with its four horses abreast, waits in readiness to complete
the journey. It must be admitted that the road that goes rising and
falling over the hilly country is not good. The future will doubtless
endow the district with a network of highways of quite another kind.
But Piriapolis is young. Hence the unfortunate wagon that is lit upon,
shortly after the start, stuck hard and fast in the deep mud of a
hollow. In the way of good Samaritans, horses are detached from the
coach to assist in the struggle; but the tenacious mud clings in
unyielding obstinacy to its wheeled prey. In the end the contest is
abandoned for the time being; the lent horses return to their place in
front of the coach, and the driver of the wagon departs gloomily to
scour the neighbouring country in search of oxen.
As the coach proceeds, the way lies through a wild and mountainous
country that bears not a little resemblance to portions of the South
West of Ireland. But here in the place of the whitewashed Irish cabins
are mud ranchos, almost every one of which reposes beneath the
sheltering branches of its own particular unit or group of ombú-trees.
After a little more than an hour's drive the aspect of the country to
the front changes abruptly, and presently the coach enters the cool
shade of a great forest of eucalyptus and pine. It is difficult to
conceive these stretches of giant trees as not having covered the soil
for generations. Yet less than twenty years ago the face of this
particular district was as bare as any of that of the surrounding
country, since it is only eighteen years ago that Señor Piria planted
the first sapling that went to form this present forest land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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