Roads of a better order now prick their way the length of the woodland
aisles, and after a while a lonely little store and post-office stand
out from amidst the trees. A little beyond evidences of civilisation
appear quite unexpectedly. A pair of fine wrought-iron gates are to
the front. Once through these an avenue, adorned by statues at
intervals of a few yards, leads to a square turreted building that is
known as the _castillo_, or castle, of Señor Piria himself. The
dwelling is a pleasant one, with its broad stone terraces that
overlook pretty grounds, covered with semi-tropical trees, shrubs, and
flowers, laid out after the Italian style.
The view obtained from the upper terrace here is decidedly beautiful.
Beyond the gardens spread broad orchards and vineyards, and at the
back of these again on one side is a belt of forest that covers the
ground for seven miles and more until the edge of the sea itself is
reached--a sparkling line of blue that is visible in the distance from
here. On the opposite side rises a rugged hill of immense queer-shaped
boulders, from the interstices of which grows a dense tangle of scrub.
By far the most conspicuous object, however, in the whole panorama is
the aptly named Pan de Azucar, or Sugar Loaf Mountain, that rises to a
height of some two thousand feet on the west of the castle. The hill
is a bare mass of serrated rock, and represents one of the highest
points in the Republic. It is the dominating feature in a landscape
that affords a wonderful combination of mountain, valley, forest, and
sea.
The architecture of the castillo itself is somewhat original. The
ground floor is almost entirely occupied by the guests' bedrooms,
apartments with great vaulted ceilings that open promiscuously the one
into the other. The living apartments are on the first floor, and the
walls of the central hall are hung with many old Italian paintings.
Above this again is the square tower that stands as the summit of the
house. I mention the architecture more particularly, since it is
entirely unusual, the ordinary country houses of Uruguay being almost
without exception constructed on a single floor.
The seven miles of eucalyptus forest that intervene between the
castillo and the sea afford a delightful drive to the shore of
Piriapolis Bay. This portion of the coast consists of a shelving sandy
shore eminently suited for the purposes of bathing, and is backed by
an imposing vista of forest and mountain. The hill immediately behind
the bay, by the way, is locally known as the Sierra de los Ingleses,
having been employed, it is said, for the purposes of smuggling in the
old days by English sailors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account